On board the new, Aussie-owned luxury ship cruising Europe

The ship: “MS Estrela”

• The cruise Nine-day Douro Delights from Madrid to Porto
• The ship APT MS Estrela, launched August 2024
• Passengers 114
• Crew 38
• Decks Four
• Length 262.5 feet (80 metres)

MS Estrela docked in the Douro Valley.

The MS Estrela, meaning star in Portuguese – commands attention. But never in a shouty way. Purpose-built for the Douro River, one of APT Travel Group’s newest ships was designed to reflect the natural beauty of the landscape it travels through. Instead of a typical, stark-white exterior, the Estrela is a stylish, cappuccino-colour, with organic, textured furnishings and expansive windows designed to make the most of the riverside vistas. The vibe is at once coastal and contemporary, infused with southern European flair. As an Australian-owned, family-run tour and cruise company (with a 97-year pedigree no less) APT knows what Australians want from a holiday and has tweaked a few things (rooftop barbecue anyone?) with this market in mind. Everything except premium wine and spirits is included.

Spacious guest lounge.

Boarding

We stay overnight at the five-star VP Plaza Espana Design hotel in Madrid before boarding a coach for the 2½-hour drive to the ancient city of Salamanca, home to Spain’s oldest university. A guided walking tour, a generous allowance of €35 ($57) to spend on lunch anywhere in the town (hello tapas) and we’re back on the coach headed to the riverside town of Vega de Terron on the Spanish/Portuguese border. Never has boarding been so effortless. Our coach pulls up at the gangplank, and in no time, we are in our cabins and unpacking.

The design

On the deck of the MS Estrela.

Good design demands both form and function, something the Estrela embodies. An earthy colour palette of tan, limestone and terracotta, and the use of timber, rattan and wicker combine to create a casual yet refined ambience. Think Byron Bay-boho meets contemporary coastal. Meticulous attention has been paid to the comfort of the lounge seating, deck furniture, and the flow of space around them. Launched in August 2024, everything is radiant and ready to roll.

The spaces

The Sun Deck and pool … the biggest on the Douro.

With just 114 passengers, Estrela never feels crowded; the ship’s public spaces foster a sense of ease and relaxation. Getting around is a breeze, with the four decks connected by one main staircase and (except for the top deck) an elevator. The Sun Deck has one of the largest swimming pools on the Douro, with a barbecue, sun lounges and alfresco tables. The absence of pool towels is a surprising oversight.

One deck below, the True North lounge and bar is the place to gather for afternoon tea, pre-dinner cocktails, “port talks” and evening entertainment. Down one more level to Constellations restaurant, which has a casual, yet elegant feel with lots of space and light. Seating configurations offer enough options, so no one need play musical chairs.

The suite

French Balcony Suite.

The relaxed style continues across the 57 staterooms and suites, which range from Window Staterooms (13.4-15.6 square metres), French Balcony Suites (14.6-18 square metres) and two Owner’s Suites (23.2 square metres). I’m on level three in a French Balcony Suite, so named for the electric slide-down window that opens to a “French-style” balcony. It’s a bit of a stretch to call it a balcony, but by lowering the expansive window halfway down it lends a delightful indoor/outdoor feel to the whole cabin. A TV, two small armchairs, safe, mini-fridge and personal climate control complete the picture. A thoughtful addition is the wall of wooden hooks near the cabin door for hanging jackets, hats, handbags and lanyards. Having only one bedside table instead of the standard two is a missed detail.

The food

Lunches and dinners are a stand-out, featuring four-course menus.

Port wines, olive oils, zesty-citrus, market-fresh fish – the best of the Douro Valley is within plucking distance for chef Andrei Tirca. Meals are a mix of Portuguese, Mediterranean and international flavours, plus an “always available” selection of favourites. There’s an early-riser or late-riser breakfast in the lounge or a full buffet in Constellations restaurant.

Lunches and dinners are a stand-out, featuring four-course menus with highlights such as pan-seared grouper with caviar beurre blanc or chicken ballotine with ruby port wine jus. Don’t fancy a formal midday meal? There’s always a buffet option or a light lunch in the lounge. Each menu is paired with recommended wines from the Douro region, enhancing the dining experience while offering an introduction to the local vineyards and grape varietals. Tip: if you’re not normally a fan of port, try a portico tonico – Portugal’s answer to the G&T, a refreshing blend of dry white port served with tonic water, plenty of ice and garnished with lemon. Best served while sailing.

Wellness

Let’s face it, a cruise through one of the world’s premier wine regions is more about indulging in the food and wine than wellness. The pool invites a token swim, but it’s better suited for socialising than getting in a workout. For those inclined, there’s a three-hole putting green. Daily excursions will keep your step count up.

Entertainment

Days fill easily with excursions or tailored sightseeing through the Freedom of Choice experiences. During stretches of sailing there’s often a fun quiz, documentary screening or lecture about Portuguese history in the main lounge. Evening entertainment offers anything from a traditional harp performance to a Portuguese folk band to a disco night. A highlight of the trip is an exclusive Signature Experience at Porto’s stunning Palacio da Bolsa featuring a guided tour, a cocktail reception and traditional Fado performance in the Arabian Hall.

The crew

MS Estrela cruising the Douro River in Portugal.

Only six cruises in, this new ship’s crew already work together like a well-oiled team. Service is not only efficient, smooth and professional, but marked by a genuine warmth and friendliness that makes every guest feel valued. Nothing is too much trouble.

The verdict

The MS Estrela, purpose-built for the Douro River, offers an intimate cruise experience with a fresh, contemporary design and personalised attention. If you’re looking for all-inclusive luxury on one of Europe’s lesser-visited rivers this is the cruise for you.

The details

APT’s nine-day Douro Delights tour from Madrid to Porto (also operates in reverse) costs from $7295 a person April-September (flights not included). The itinerary is inclusive of one night’s land accommodation and seven nights onboard the MS Estrela. All meals, a wide range of onboard beverages, Wi-Fi, comprehensive sightseeing tours, Freedom of Choice experiences and Signature Experiences are all included.

Rating out of five

★★★★

Swell

Sitting on the bow deck, watching for birds or enjoying the thrill of passing through one of the Douro River’s five locks.

Not so swell

We’re not beside ourselves about it, but any chance of a second bedside table?

The writer was a guest of APT Touring. See aptouring.com