Not quite luxe but this expedition ship is the real deal

The ship: Aurora Expeditions’ Greg Mortimer

• The cruise Ushuaia to Ushuaia (23 days)
• The ship Built 2019
• Passengers 130
• Crew 78 plus 21-person expedition team
• Decks 8
• Length 343 feet (104.5 metres)

Greg Mortimer in Cierva Cove in Antarctica.Credit: Tyson Mayr

This small but valiant expedition ship is named for Aurora Expeditions’ founder, legendary Aussie mountaineer and adventurer Greg Mortimer. Although premium rather than luxury, this is an unbeatable and pioneering expedition ship with every technology and a crack expedition team to tackle polar travel. It was the first expedition cruise ship to have an Ulstein X-bow, which, coupled with dynamic stabilisers, produces greater stability in rough seas compared with other similarly sized ships.

Boarding

Guests are offered a pre-boarding catamaran cruise on the Beagle Channel to spot seabirds and seals and to admire the emblematic Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse. It’s a short walk from one quay to another to board Greg Mortimer, and there are no port formalities. On board we swap passports for stateroom cards and are speedily shown to our cabins, where luggage is already waiting.

The design

Design that projects calm comfort … the observation lounge.Credit: Aurora Expeditions

Greg Mortimer is a notch below luxe in materials and textiles but interiors are well-designed and project an atmosphere of calm comfort and uncluttered elegance. The palette soothes in pale browns and blues, lurid patterns are avoided, and natural light floods public spaces. Superb art photos, mostly of polar destinations, are supplemented by interesting panels outlining the exploits of various explorers. Expect style without fuss on a ship that leans towards Scandinavia in design inspiration.

The spaces

Hot tub with a view.Credit: Matt Horspool

For a ship that carries 130 passengers, Greg Mortimer beats some larger expedition opposition in its generous public areas, which include a large lecture lounge with a help-yourself coffee station, and adjacent Elephant Island bar and lounge, popular for pre-dinner cocktails.

The forward-facing observation lounge on Deck 8 has a small bar and large deck from which to view wildlife and scenery. Another expansive deck faces aft on Deck 7, which might normally be filled with Zodiacs on expedition ships.

I particularly like the snug library on the port side, crammed with polar reference and history books, and with windows often framing views of mountains or icebergs. The ship also has a reception desk, small shop and, in its bowels, a mudroom for storing boots and poplar jackets (both supplied by Aurora Expeditions) and with access onto Zodiacs for excursions.

The stateroom

Balcony stateroom.Credit:

I’m in a balcony stateroom, each of which varies slightly in size. Mine is 20.9 square metres plus balcony. It’s a generous and well-considered space with enough room for a desk and two small armchairs, and ample storage space for the contents of two suitcases.

A large TV, a minibar and abundant electric and USB sockets are among amenities. The room is well insulated: I can’t hear my jet-lagged neighbours, who worry I might be disturbed by their TV late at night.

The ensuite is a decent size but is lacking a cabinet or much counter-top space. Yet it has what you really need in polar conditions: underfloor heating, and a generous shower space with gushing hot water.

The food

There are two main dining concepts: a casual buffet and specialty restaurant Tuscan Grill.Credit: Aurora Expeditions

Dining times are short, and service swift but attentive. Seating is open. There’s only one restaurant, with breakfast and lunch served buffet-style and providing a good range of hot and cold dishes. At lunchtime I’m very happy with the salad bar, cold cuts and cheeses, an always excellent soup, and various hot dishes and desserts that change daily.

The galley delivers consistently good, home-cooking-style cuisine, rather than the fancy or adventurous. The menu is Europe-inspired but among the choices is always an Indian (and sometimes other Asian) dish to enliven the palate. Wine is included at dinner.

A small section of the dining room is set aside in the evenings as a speciality, inclusive Tuscan grill restaurant. It has a limited and unchanging menu but the two pasta dishes (pappardelle alla norma and oxtail ragout) are excellent, as are various vegetable side dishes.

Wellness

An on-board sauna … where chilled bones can be warmed.Credit: Aurora Expeditions

The ship has a small spa, a good-sized gym with an impressive range of equipment, and two hot tubs on Deck 7 at the front of the ship that make for fabulous wallowing as glaciers and icebergs pass by. Also popular is the sauna, where chilled bones can be warmed, especially following the notorious “polar plunge” or rite-of-passage dip into the icy Antarctic Ocean.

Entertainment

Nobody is on this ship for singers or piano players. Greg Mortimer is focused on maximising the expedition experience, so “entertainment” is confined to informative lectures by highly experienced expedition staff, many of whom are scientists specialising in geology, ecology, Antarctic history or niche subjects from whales to penguins.

Guests make Zodiac excursions twice daily (conditions permitting) and may opt for additional adventure activities such as kayaking, snowshoeing, mountain climbing, ice camping and scuba-diving or snorkelling (yes, even in polar regions).

Greg Mortimer has a huge advantage in Antarctica, where regulations restrict landings to 100 people at a time. With some guests out kayaking or doing sporting activities elsewhere, guests can maximise their time ashore without any need, as on larger ships, to rotate.

The crew

The expedition team is where Aurora excels.Credit: Jett Britnell

The quality of any expedition hinges on the experience, knowledge and good sense of the expedition team, where Aurora excels. Greg Mortimer himself leads the team on my voyage but all its members are impressive, whether in the lecture lounge or out in the Zodiacs. On shore they patiently answer questions about everything from sea-ice formation to the sex life of penguins.

The regular ships’ crew are mostly from the Philippines, with all the usual charm and friendliness you expect from that nation’s hard-working cruise staff. They soon remember guests’ names and dining preferences. A shout-out in particular to the irrepressible Pel and the always-singing Wendy in the restaurant, who manage attentive service while always appearing relaxed.

The verdict

Aurora Expeditions isn’t a fancy cruise company with an expedition-lite arm but the real deal, offering a thrilling and rugged sense of adventure in the remotest places – and yet not sacrificing comfort to do so.

The details

A 23-day Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctic Peninsula itinerary round-trip from Ushuaia departing December 27, 2025, is priced from $US28,215 a guest all-inclusive, except for some adventure activities. Greg Mortimer has two staterooms with disabled access. See aurora-expeditions.com

The rating out of five

★★★★½

SWELL The two igloo-like GeoDomes added to Deck 7 aft in 2024, which allow guests to feel as if they’re immersed in the incredible polar views while staying snug.

NOT SO SWELL On a ship that spends most of its time in polar regions, it seems a pity to sacrifice interior cabin space for a deep balcony devoid of furniture.

The writer was a guest of Aurora Expeditions.