Island resort offers a wonderfully laid-back escape from winter

The hotel

Little Polynesian, Rarotonga

Check in

Little Polynesian’s main building is light and airy, with the focus on that blue lagoon.

After landing at tiny Rarotonga airport, the drive to Little Polynesian is easy: the quiet main road runs around the entire edge of the island, one lane each way, so it’s a breeze to navigate – just watch out for wandering (tame) dogs. There are a couple of dedicated parking spots, or just pull up on the grass verge outside its stone walls. The resort’s cathedral-style reception is light and airy, with views over the infinity pool to the glinting blue lagoon of your dreams beyond.

The look

A stone pathway leads to your beachside villa with private deck.Credit: Trudi Jenkins

Set in lush gardens with a backdrop of volcanic mountains and the ocean beckoning beachside, Little Polynesian is your textbook tropical escape – it’s also adults-only for added peace. A quick stroll down a frangipani-laden path brings you to your villa fronting Titikaveka Beach, considered one of the South Pacific’s best. The contemporary decor breaks from the traditional Polynesian dark-wood look, instead featuring lots of white and wicker throughout.

The room

Rooms are simply furnished – it’s all about that view.

The simply furnished thatched-roof bungalows have a private walled entrance and a spacious deck overlooking the lagoon. Inside you’ll find a lounge/dining area and kitchenette with bar fridge and Nespresso machine; an elevated bedroom with king-size bed; a large bathroom with freestanding bath, and an outdoor courtyard and shower. There is air-conditioning, a television with in-house movies, a telephone, safe, hairdryer and iron/ironing board.

Food + drink

Tables are scattered around the infinity pool.Credit: Trudi Jenkins

Open to non-residents, the resort’s restaurant offers all-day dining, from coconut crepes or ham and cheese omelette with housemade chutney at breakfast to a very decent steak or mushroom risotto at dinner. Dining alfresco, overlooking the palm trees reflected in the pool, is damn near as good as it gets (even if I’m here with my uni-student daughter rather than on honeymoon, like most of the other guests). Equally if not more enjoyable is a mango daiquri and a bowl of hot chips delivered to your sundeck while you finally get around to reading a book.

Out + about

Join a snorkelling tour with Ariki Adventures; motorised hand-held “sea scooters” pull you gently along the water’s surface, making it effortless to swim alongside Finding Nemo-style fish and turtles (beginners should be careful of coral scrapes). An Arore Mountain Trail Hike is challenging in parts with climbing ropes needed, but more than rewards with panoramic views of the mountains and Muri lagoon. (If you want to get up there for sunrise, remember the climb up will be in darkness.) More passive entertainment can be found at the Te Vara Nui overwater show, a fun night of island legends, dancing and drums, plus a buffet dinner. For more sophisticated dining, try Tamarind restaurant (beware the Sydney prices, although the servings are enormous) or check out relaxed Aussie-style Beluga cafe for excellent coffee/brunch with bonus roaming chickens.

The verdict

Rarotonga is a relatively short flight away, caters well to tourists but is not yet overdeveloped. It’s easy to get around the island, and Little Polynesian is a charming, tranquil resort right on a spectacular beach.

Essentials

Bungalows are footsteps from the beach.Credit: Trudi Jenkins

From $NZ800 ($725) a night for a garden studio, $906 for a Beachfront Suite. Little Polynesian Resort, Main Road - Titikaveka, Rarotonga. Phone: [phone]. See pacificresort.com

Jetstar flies to Rarotonga five times a week from Sydney, using the new A321neo LR. Check out the bundle options to include baggage, select your seat, and add in-flight food and drink. See jetstar.com

Our score out of five

★★★★

Highlight

The relaxed vibe, roaming dogs/chickens and friendly locals make for a wonderfully laid-back holiday.

Lowlight

The high restaurant prices are a little unexpected but understandable given how much produce needs to be flown in.

The writer travelled as a guest of Cook Islands Tourism and Jetstar.