House on the Rock, Bundeena review: Life on the edge

At sea ... the House on the Rock sits above Gunyah Beach at Bundeena.

Kate Duthie indulges her celebrity fantasy in a cliff-top hideaway.

I can't act, I don't have glamorous celebrity looks and I'm not 23 but I've always quite fancied living the life of a movie star. Just for a bit. Celebrities get special treatment wherever they go, from turning left up the aisle when they get on a plane to red-carpet arrivals and secret holiday retreats.

But while my germ of an idea for a Tropfest entry might not lead me to a life in the Hollywood Hills, I've managed to find a perfect secret hideaway with my family and some friends on a weekend break in Bundeena.

So secret that if our mate Jules hadn't arrived first and waited for us in the dark on the hill above the house, I doubt we would have found it. What is also a subject of discussion among locals is how the House on the Rock ever gained planning approval. Built in 1991 and recently renovated, it is in a position that's quite extraordinary and, one would think, unachievable.

The house is reached by a steep, grassy public footpath. Tucked snugly behind another house, it is perched on top of a sandstone cliff, the sharp end of which forms a ledge jutting out over the rock pools and waves at the eastern end of Gunyah Beach on the southern edge of Port Hacking. While you can look up from the beach and glimpse the house through the gum trees, it's well hidden from the footpath and feels private.

In the absence of a limo driver, we carry our bags down the hill along a wooden walkway, through a set of gates, then another set of gates, past an outdoor shower and on to a huge glass-rimmed deck. There are 270-degree views over the water, from Port Hacking to Cronulla and out to the Pacific. It's simply breathtaking. Looking out at the reflections on the bay in the dark, we feel special.

The house, though beautifully decorated and furnished in modern, muted tones, is essentially an unremarkable rectangular design, with living space at one end and sleeping areas at the other. What makes it sing is the clever use of glass, allowing the jaw-dropping view to be seen from every bedroom and living area. Floor-to-ceiling glass wraps the open living, kitchen and dining area on two sides and each bedroom opens on to the deck through sliding doors.

We immediately feel at home. Bags of food are unpacked, beer and wine is chilled, children are put in pyjamas in front of DVDs, dinner preparation begins and the conversation flows, mainly about the house.

On both nights we rug up and dine and play board games on the deck, the rhythm of the bay and the ocean providing the backing track.

Bedtime is a treat. There is a bedroom with twin beds for the children and a double each for the grown-ups, one with an ensuite. Good-quality bath towels are provided and the beds are well made with pillows, sheets, throws and warm quilts. There's also a good-size family bathroom, a laundry and a clever passage at the back of the house that hides the ugly bins, barbecue area and washing line.

The kitchen is well appointed with a huge fridge-freezer, plenty of storage space for our food and all the crockery, cutlery and glassware we need. The absence of a good non-stick frying pan is our only gripe.

We are treated to two hot sunny days and spend them outdoors as much as possible. We pick our way along rocky Gunyah Beach, stopping to investigate pools and glancing up at exposed beach houses, feeling slightly sorry for the occupants because they are so on show. We continue past the ferry wharf to sandy Horderns Beach and back again.

Coffee and eggs are bought in the local cafe, a 10-minute walk away, and the village playground gets some attention but mainly we stick close to the house. Some of us stretch out on the couch in the sun while others settle on the beach, beer and wine close at hand, keeping an eye on naked children screaming and splashing in the shallows. When the children aren't looking, each grown-up takes a turn slipping out through the deck gates to sit on the sandstone ledge with a glass of wine, a newspaper and a smug expression.

As the weekend continues it becomes clear the appeal of this place is less about its movie-star quality and more about the simple pleasures: the view, the quiet, the space, the home comforts.

When you find a holiday house this lovely, it's tempting to keep it to yourself and not share the love. But, then again, doesn't everyone deserve to feel special sometimes?

Weekends Away are reviewed anonymously and paid for by Traveller.

VISITORS' BOOK

House on the Rock

Address 55 Neil Street, Bundeena.

The verdict A peaceful, beautiful treat.

Price From $900 for a two-night weekend stay.

Bookings Phone [phone] or see bundeenaholidayhouse.com.

Getting there About an hour's drive south of Sydney. Take the turn-off to the Royal National Park and then follow signs to Bundeena.

Wheelchair access No.

Perfect for A family splurge or for three couples.

While you're there Walk on the beaches, fish, kayak, catch the ferry to Cronulla or take a hike in Royal National Park.