France’s fast trains are stress-free, but beware the backwards seats

The train: TGV INOUI

• The journey Paris to Luxembourg premium fast train service, departing 8.14am, arriving 10.32am
• Operator French rail company SNCF
• Duration Two hours and 18 minutes
• Class First Class, coach 12, seat 82
• Frequency Seven daily direct departures

TGV Duplex INOUI high-speed train.Credit: Getty Images

The journey

Paris Gare de l’Est to Luxembourg Gare Centrale on TGV INOUI high-speed train, with a scheduled duration of two hours, 18 minutes. We depart and arrive right on time.

The class

I’m in first class, coach 12, window seat 82. The seat is described as “solo window Alone upper deck”, a designation that’s music to the ears of this solitude-seeking traveller.

I’m facing in the direction of the train’s movement, which makes for a smooth ride. On the return journey later in the day, my seat faces the opposite direction to where we’re going, and I experience some queasy moments of motion sickness.

You pay more for first class tickets than standard class, obviously, but the seats are wider and more comfortable, plus you can choose your preferred seats on the train’s plan: single, two facing seats, side-by-side or club four (two sets of side-by-side seats facing each other, with a shared table).

Boarding

The interior of Gare de l’Est terminal in Paris.Credit: Getty Images

I take the Paris metro to Gare de l’Est from George V station on the Champs-Elysees. It’s a seamless connection from the metro to the area where inter-city and international trains depart. I arrive 30 minutes early.

To fill the time before departure, there are plenty of shops to browse and cafes offering refreshments. At Monop’Daily, I buy a warm quiche and hot tea for breakfast. The platform number is displayed on large screens 30 minutes before the train departs. Ticket barcodes must be scanned at entrance gates for platform access. I have a confirmed seat reservation, so there’s no need to rush. My ticket is scanned again midway through the journey by a conductor in a navy suit and jaunty hat.

The seat

Room to move and facing the right way.Credit: Kristie Kellahan

In a 1-2, one-aisle configuration, I’m in the solo aisle seat. Some seats are covered in purple fabric with maroon dots, while others are maroon with purple dots. There’s plenty of legroom, generous width and a comfy recline function that encourages a mid-morning nap. All seats have a large tray table, footrest and a power outlet (two round pins, European-style), but no USB ports. Only window seats have a coat/bag hook on the wall. There’s complimentary high-speed Wi-Fi throughout the train.

Baggage

The high-speed Paris to Luxembourg TGV INOUI.Credit: Kristie Kellahan

The rule is, you must be able to carry all your luggage at once, without assistance. Generally, that amounts to no more than two suitcases and one piece of hand luggage a person.

There’s ample overhead space in open racks for small backpacks and carry-ons. A luggage rack in the middle of the carriage is for larger suitcases and backpacks. I’m day-tripping and carry only a handbag, which I hang on a hook by the window.

The Mes Bagages service allows you to travel luggage-free. Porters pick up bags from your hotel or one of 20,000 collection points, then deliver it when and where you want it.

Food and drink

The bar cart is in the centre of the train, conveniently right next to the carriage I’m in. The menu developed by well-known French chef Thierry Marx features favourite local dishes, including brioche, croque-monsieur and baguettes. Prices are reasonable; €3.80 ($6.30) for a cappuccino, €4.60 for a can of Heineken beer, €2.50 for chocolate brioche.

Carbon emissions

The TGV INOUI is an eco-friendly way to travel, with an estimated 1.144 kilograms of CO2 created per passenger on this route. Less-efficient TER trains produce 10 times more emissions. The French rail network has one of the lowest carbon footprints in the world.

One more thing...

A TV monitor at the end of the carriage displays real-time updates of the train’s speed. The fastest I see is 300km/h. The INOUI fleet can reach speeds of up to 320km/h.

The verdict

This is a stress-free, comfortable way to travel between Paris and Luxembourg and back again in a day. To avoid motion sickness, be sure to book seats facing the direction as the train’s movement.

Our rating out of five

★★★★

The writer travelled courtesy of Rail Europe. See raileurope.com