A candle-lit bath experience in Spain was one of the best of my life

The place

Mas Salagros Eco Resort, Vallromanes, Spain

The eco resort and its forest.

Check-in

We’ve arrived in Barcelona after a seven-day Mediterranean cruise from Athens aboard the newly launched Sun Princess, but instead of staying in a city hotel, we’ve opted to base ourselves in the countryside near the town of Vallromanes, a 30-minute drive north of the Catalan capital. Located inside a nature reserve and adjacent to the protected Serralada Litoral Park, Mas Salagros gained permission to build here because of its commitment to sustainability. With Green Globe certification, this is sustainable tourism at its best.

We’ve driven by electric car (there are three charging stations onsite) but trains also run from Barcelona to Mollet-Sant Fost station, followed by a taxi or hotel transfer. A warm welcome, a glass of sparkling cava (local, organic) and we are soon relaxing on sun lounges in front of our garden suite.

The look

Guests can gaze at the stars from Stella Bar.

The phrase “nestled in a forest” is rarely accurate or warranted. But at Mas Salagros, it’s the ideal description for this eco-hotel, where rooftops are planted as gardens and wilderness runs rampant at its edges. Constructed in 2016, the property’s original farmhouse from 1497 has been retained and is now host to five exclusive suites, the reception area and AIRE Ancient Baths (an international brand name, not actual “ancient baths”). The unifying feature across the complex – billed as the first 100 per cent eco-friendly resort on the Iberian Peninsula – is the use of handmade or repurposed furniture and decorator items – even the books in the library are second-hand. A biomass boiler provides most of the heating and 300-square-metres of solar panels makes a significant contribution to the electricity supply.

The room

A guest room – earthy and stylish.

Sustainable it may be, but hippy-dippy it is not. All 60 guest rooms, of which there are three main categories – room with terrace, superior room with garden, garden suite – and five farmhouse suites, are stylish and beautifully decorated. The beds have been made by hand and the textiles, linens, quilts and towels are organic. We are staying in a poolside garden suite, which at 30 square metres is the largest of the three main categories, bar the farmhouse suites. There’s a comfortable bed (wider than a queen, but not quite a king), sitting area with sofa bed, front porch and private garden. The spacious bathroom has a shower, separate bathtub and eco-friendly amenities. A television, minibar, teapot and kettle (but no coffee), robe and slippers complete the picture. Colours are muted and it’s very tactile and earthy.

Food + drink

Restaurant 1497 was awarded a Sun (Michelin star equivalent) in 2024.

Even if I wasn’t staying here, I’d make the drive from Barcelona for the food alone. Restaurant 1497 (named in honour of the original farmhouse) serves organic, seasonal produce, much of it sourced from the resort’s own garden. Choose between three tasting menus – 1497, Slow and Vegan – matched with organic wines. In recognition of its elevated cuisine, Restaurant 1497 was awarded a Sun in 2024 by the prestigious Repsol Guide (the Spanish version of Michelin stars). Restaurant Cibus serves organic, casual meals, while Gastro Wine Bar is all about tapas and small dishes. A nightcap in Stella Bar, where a glass ceiling affords views of the starry sky above the Serralada Litoral Park, is a must.

Out + about

AIRE Ancient Baths housed within the original 15th-century farmhouse.

Everything about Mas Salagros is designed around the philosophy of slow living. If you can drag yourself away from the resort activities – water circuit within the AIRE thermal baths, cooking classes, forest bathing, yoga – there’s a bounty of options within a 10–15-minute drive. From wine tasting in the vineyards of the Alella region to upmarket shopping at La Roca village to taking a dip at any number of North Barcelona Coast beaches. We’d planned to hire e-bikes to explore the many trails of the Serralada Litoral Park, but once we got into the slow-zone, the most we managed was a short hike.

The verdict

If you’re after a few days of rest and relaxation in a natural environment, but still want access to Barcelona and the provinces of Catalonia this is the hotel for you.

The essentials

Garden suites from €340 ($547) a night, which include a 90-minute water circuit at AIRE Ancient Baths. Interconnecting and accessible rooms available. Rivera de Vallromanes, Vallromanes. Phone [phone]; see massalagros.com

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

Highlight
A candle-lit water circuit in the basement of an old farmhouse from the 15th-century is hands-down the best thermal bath experience of my life.

Lowlight
I visited in late spring and the main swimming pool was not yet open for the season.

The writer travelled as a guest of Catalan Tourist Board (catalunya.com) and Princess Cruises (princess.com).