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The world’s largest waterfall system is a dazzling experience

By Brian Johnston

The seven wonders of the Iguazu Falls, Brazil/Argentina

The falls of Iguazu (or Iguacu in Portuguese) combine to create the world’s largest waterfall system. Here’s what you shouldn’t miss.

1 Be dazzled by the Devil’s Throat

The falls and the Devils Throat.

The falls and the Devils Throat.Credit: iStock

Iguazu is made up of 275 falls, but the most magnificent up-close encounter is at Devil’s Throat in Argentina, where the ground shivers and the air dances with rainbows. The horseshoe of 14 cascades, best viewed in late afternoon with the sun behind you, is easily appreciated from walkways at the top of the plateau, some right at the lip of waterfalls. The roar and slide of water is mesmerising. The outlook from Salto San Martin is the best of eight viewpoints.

2 Get soaked on the Lower Circuit

You’d be mad to miss the 1.7-kilometre walk at the bottom of the falls around Devil’s Throat, even if you will get wet in the process. You get a different perspective and a far more visceral experience as the falls thunder, spray drifts and jungle steams. The Salto Bossetti falls are the highlight. Unless high water prevents it, you should nip across by boat to Isla San Martin, whose small trail gets you a good look at several turbulent waterfalls.

3 Meet the wildlife at Guira Oga Centre

Local wildlife – a toucan.

Local wildlife – a toucan.Credit: iStock

This wildlife hospital and rehabilitation centre, nestled in rainforest on Puerto Iguazu’s edge, gets you up close to rainforest creatures, some endangered; the centre also has a captive breeding program. The focus is mostly on birds, including spectacular toucans and macaws and modest-looking but rare guans and macucos. You might also see capybaras and capuchin monkeys. Guides give interesting accounts of how animals were injured and are coaxed back to health, sometimes after being retaught how to fly.

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4 Enjoy the evening at Hito Tres Fronteras

Some of Iguazu Falls is actually in Paraguay, but crossing the border is a headache, and tourist amenities scant. Instead, get out to this viewpoint at the confluence of the Iguazu and Parana rivers below the main set of falls, where you’ll be able to look across to Paraguay and Brazil. There isn’t much happening by day, but the lookout is fun during the evening sound-and-light show, when holograms and lasers are projected onto dancing fountains and walls of water.

5 Take a walk in the national park

A walkway around the falls in Iguazu National Park.

A walkway around the falls in Iguazu National Park.Credit: iStock

Iguazu sits in a World Heritage national park that covers 700 square kilometres of subtropical forests nourished by the waterfalls’ spray. Hit the trails (Macuco Trail to Arrechea Waterfall is easy) to spot wildlife now scarce on the tramped tourist sections near the river. Colourful birds and butterflies are commonly seen; endearing capuchin monkeys leap in the branches overhead. You might be lucky to spot a coati or anteater. Orchids also flourish in the damp environment.

6 Admire the wide angle from Brazil

Brazilian town Foz do Iguacu is livelier, cheaper and more varied in its tourist attractions than Puerto Iguazu. Nip across for the day because although the falls are more distant and walkways more sedate, you get a wider panorama of the whole ensemble. The viewing platform reached by a lift that hoists you up the side of Salto Floriano waterfall has the most sweeping outlook from above, while its base gets you close to the crashing water.

7 Be electrified by a man-made wonder

Itaipu Dam on the Parana River.

Itaipu Dam on the Parana River.Credit: iStock

Itaipu Dam on the Parana River, a joint project of Paraguay and Brazil, is one of the world’s biggest hydroelectric dams and a sight as mind-boggling as any provided by nature, if not as pretty.

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You can visit the engineering marvel on tours from the Brazilian side that provide the story of its construction and views of the 7.2-kilometre dam and vast lake behind. If water levels are high, the spillway gush is stupendous.

See iguazuargentina.com and visitbrasil.com

The writer travelled at his own expense.

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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/traveller/inspiration/where-the-ground-shivers-and-the-air-dances-with-rainbows-20240614-p5jlt4.html