What I learnt travelling solo in the world’s safest country for women

Spasming lights, screaming “music”, a claustrophobic crush: it felt less pub, more physical pummelling. But I had to concede that, up to that point – the point my organs began to jangle inside my skin – I’d had a good evening.

It was the last night of a solo trip around Switzerland, and I’d joined the weekly Zurich Pub Crawl. As a middle-aged woman who hadn’t packed party clothes (when alone, it’s best to travel light), I’d been unsure if it was for me. Don’t worry, the organisers had said: the group would be big, the average age 35, pensioners not uncommon.

Women make up as much as 80 per cent of all solo travellers.Credit: iStock

So, I signed up. And while the last stop was definitely not my scene, I’d spent an interesting few hours mingling in bars with a mixed bunch, including two lovely Germans, a soulful Indian businessman, some Zurich natives, an Ecuadorian-Swiss and a guy from Swindon, UK. A nice change from another night alone.

There’s been a 56 per cent increase in Google searches for “solo holidays” since 2020. In particular, more women are travelling alone – it’s reckoned over 80 per cent of those who go solo are female; some are single, but many have partners who don’t share the same interests.

For many of these women, safety is the biggest concern. So, especially for first-time solos, it makes sense to choose a destination that’s less likely to be dangerous. According to iVisa, looking at factors such as crime and gender-based violence rates, ranking on the Global Peace Index and overall friendliness, the safest country for women travelling alone in 2024 is Switzerland.

Great, and perhaps unsurprising. But, I wondered, would exploring the country alone still be fun? Would its fabled landscapes seem as impressive without someone to share them with? Would it be easy to navigate oneself in German, French, Italian and Romansh? Were there solo-friendly activities that weren’t outrageously priced? Could you order fondue for one? I decided to leave the husband at home and take a classic Swiss rail trip to find out.

I was travelling in autumn, a good time for solos, being free of the peak-season crowds that can make you feel even more alone. And, having whizzed across northern France by train, my first stop was Basel.

Basel, starting with the Old Town, is a great city to explore on your own.Credit: iStock

Switzerland’s third-largest city perches on the Rhine at the point where Switzerland, France and Germany meet. Indeed, you can visit all three countries in a quick spin by e-bike, which is what I did with Basel Bike Tours – a good way to get your bearings and meet other people. Guide Reiner led me through the handsome old town, into Alsace, across the river to the state of Baden-Württemberg and back to Switzerland again. “Basel is cool,” Reiner said, simply. “It’s Switzerland at its most relaxed.” Just what you want when exploring alone.

Evenings are always the most awkward time to fill for solos. So I was delighted to find tickets at Theater Basel starting from just $50; the Barber of Seville, performed with puppets and both German and English subtitles was a surreal way to be entertained for the night. I was even more delighted to find Restaurant Löwenberg, a traditional tavern that specialises in fondue, with no restrictions on solo dining.

My saucepan-for-one was brimful, the secret combination of cheeses devilishly delicious. Without anyone to share the chores, I did have to juggle eating and stirring, but I didn’t have to worry about the etiquette of not double-dipping.

Gasping at grandeur: the Landwasser Viaduct.Credit: iStock

My solo city stop had gone well, even down to a solid hotel choice: right by the train station and tram stop, so easy to get to and from, safely. But how about the next leg? I was bound for Chur, Switzerland’s oldest town, in order to board the Rhaetian Railway, arguably Switzerland’s finest ride.

Rather than the tourist cars of the Bernina Express, I was taking the local Albula and Bernina lines. The same route but in regular carriages that don’t require reservations. The train didn’t have panorama cars but the windows were still huge, and there were few other passengers, so I wasn’t forced to squeeze in amid couples. I also had my pick of seats.

Sure, it would have been nice to gasp at the grandeur with someone else. But I rather liked not having anyone to distract me from a view that changed with every sleeper. As the forests thickened, as the Landwasser Viaduct curved, as the Bernina massif soared, I either basked quietly in the joy or plugged into my playlist of place-appropriate music, from Phoebe Bridgers’ Stranger in the Alps to Strauss’s Alpine Symphony.

It’s possible I may have looked a tad pretentious, gazing dreamily out the window and scribbling notes. As we crept over the Bernina Pass, I cracked open the mini-bottle of wine I’d bought in a local supermarket. There are no rules against boozing aboard, but it felt naughty nonetheless.

One thing I needn’t have worried about was communication. Announcements pointing out the journey highlights came in multiple languages, including English; as we crossed from Graubünden into the Ticino, German was relegated to second place, Italian came first.

The line terminates in Tirano, just over the border in Italy. Would solo travel be much different here? It was certainly cheaper – people-watching coffees in cafes cost €1 ($1.63) rather than CHF4.50 ($7.80). However, the trains were less timely; my first one was cancelled altogether. It wasn’t a major problem but, in general, you don’t want to be hanging around stations for ages on your own – a major boon of punctual Switzerland.

Finally leaving Tirano, my train plunged through valleys to reach Lake Como, where I stopped off in Lecco. I felt perfectly safe here too, and glad to have missed the summer crowds. There was still a pleasing buzz about the old centre, but the ferry boats were largely empty and it was easy to get a table for dinner. I ate at Üsteria, non-touristy and well-priced, where I was glad not to have to share the homemade ice cream.

But before long I was back in Switzerland, taking a train across Lake Lugano to reach Locarno, on the shores of Lake Maggiore. There was a running festival in town – which would have been a fun way to mix in with the locals – but, after a look around this elegant waterside city, I had another train to catch.

Locarno’s sprawling main square is at the heart of city life.Credit: iStock

The Gotthard Railway, opened in 1882, cuts right across the Alps, and would be my last scenic Swiss ride, delivering me to Zurich.

Even though the weather was murky, the views didn’t disappoint: rain swelled the waterfalls, mist tickled the forests in atmospheric swirls. I was aboard the local train, not the tourist panorama line, and the carriages filled up as we surged north past Lake Lucerne. I smiled at the lady who took the seat next to me, and even at the whiffy dog in her handbag. But passengers kept largely to themselves.

Maybe more-buttoned-up Switzerland isn’t the best place for striking up conversations with strangers – unless you join a pub crawl, of course. But if solitude is what you’re after, the country excels in offering a solo woman a safe, quiet, spectacular ride.

The writer travelled with flight-free specialists Byway . A sample nine-day trip, via Basel, the Rhaetian Railway, Locarno and the Gotthard Panorama Line, costs from $3188 including accommodation and train travel.

The Zurich Pub Crawl runs every Saturday, 9pm; tickets from $42pp, or $53pp including pre-crawl language exchange. Basel Bike Tours cost from $233pp