The Vietage: Luxury train journey to Vietnam's 'Cancun without the crowds'

The sit-up bar on The Vietage.

We all love a little bit of luxury but for most of us it comes with a price tag we can't afford. Except in this one destination, where mass tourism hasn't returned quite the way it has in Europe. So if you're looking for luxury digs without the crowds of say, Bali, then Vietnam is your country, and in particular, its hottest new beach destination Quy Nhon. And in this instance, getting there really is half the fun.

And luxury resort brand Anantara have created a novel way of transporting guests from their new resort at Quy Nhon to another in Hoi An. Based on Emirate's business class cabins, the brand came up with the idea of a first-class train carriage with six booths seating 12 people, with a sit-up bar and spa on board. They pitched the idea to the Vietnamese government who agreed to the plan and "The Vietage" was born, hitched to the Reformation train as it travels north to south and back again between Hanoi and HCM city.

Transport to the station from the hotel is provided at both ends making the journey relatively seamless and in air-conditioned comfort.

I experienced the journey on a recent trip to Vietnam after a few nights at their beautiful French colonial resort on the Thu Bon riverfront, a five-minute stroll from UNESCO-Heritage-Listed Hoi An. We have an early start and while I wait for the carriage to arrive, I'm handed a glass of chilled prosecco flavoured with dried hibiscus: it may be 9am in Vietnam, but it is midday in Australia. Our carriage is ready to board in 10 minutes and I'm seated in my "cabin", elegantly separated from others by rattan and bamboo dividers. It includes two wide-cushioned seats around a table, which can be unfolded into a bed for sleep when the carriage resumes its journey back to Hoi An in the evening. Passengers are even provided with slippers, pillows and blankets for the journey back; there are also charging stations at your seat and Wi-Fi on board. Everyone has a window seat with aisle access.

A blow of the whistle and a wave from the station guard and we're off, chugging past the backyards of Da Nang as we're served a breakfast of pastries and coffee (I choose Vietnamese iced-coffee, that addictive blend of coffee and condensed milk).

The next five hours are among the most relaxing I've experienced in Vietnam. There's no panic about getting to the airport on time; no need for endless queues at the airport and the hassle of removing half your clothing at security; no delays. Nope, for the next five hours we are finally able to cast our eyes over the Vietnamese countryside (something else you can't from a plane).

For around the same time it would take to fly from city to city, I sit back and enjoy a three-course meal and as many cocktails and glasses of wine as I choose. Lunch is served around 11am and there are three options, which you choose before you board. I have a vegetarian green bean and quinoa salad, with lemongrass and chilli followed by a French inspired salmon with chilli beurre blanc. For dessert, a rich creme brulee made with local dark chocolate. There's a well thought out wine list and I particularly enjoyed the light Provence rose. If you are looking to celebrate or want to splash out, you can pre-book bottles of champagne and other bottles of rare vintage wine; caviar and cheese platters. The cocktails, too, are works of art.

There's also a good mix of non-alcoholic options including mocktails and specialty herbal teas lightly flavoured with Vietnamese mint, ginger and lemongrass and a range of coffees, as well as a steady supply of water - sparkling or still - poured into crystal glasses. The Vietage also has its own bathroom, which is spacious and clean.

After lunch I'm ushered in for a spa treatment: a relaxing 20-minute head, shoulder and back massage.

While the train chugs along at the grand speed of 60km/hr, I watch the fascinating life of rural Vietnam fly by. There are landscapes of verdant green dotted with white storks; patches of corn alongside grazing water buffalo. Backyards of houses in rural towns are pressed right up against the train line. In the distance are rugged mountain peaks so steep they almost match the incline of the conical hats that bob up and down in front of them. Graveyards pop up in fields: elaborately decorated little shrines of remembrance. There are stretches of bright pink water lilies. And in the last hour of the journey, a flash of blue sea and pristine white sands marks our approach into Quy Nhon. The towering Cham ruins give away that we've arrived at our destination.

The dedicated train crew (all part of the Anantara experience, service is excellent throughout) prepare us for disembarking as the carriage is to be disconnected from the rest of the train as it continues its journey south towards Ho Chi Minh.

We drive to the resort and check into our private villas, which are right on the glorious seafront. Quy Nhon is about 200 kilometres north of Nha Trang, but it's yet to be discovered by tourists. The only sign of life I see is from the locals paddling around in basket boats to the lobster stations out front, close to the the two uninhabited islands that lie offshore.

My villa on the beach has its own private pool, with a daybed featuring sun-blocking blinds and a fan, plus plenty of cushions making it easy to doze off to the sound of waves lapping along the beach.

Anantara Quy Nhon VillasCredit: Antal Gabelics

There are 26 spacious one-and-two bedroom villas; there's also a large infinity pool with a swim-up bar, an excellent hilltop spa, and restaurant, sea.fire.salt. In my room a platter of tropical fruit, macarons and chocolates await; but dinner that night is something special. Hailing from the "island of the gods", the Balinese chef prepares a Indonesian banquet with local seafood (steering clear of the meats I don't eat) and we're feasting on Indonesian flavours with king prawns, lobster, okra, tempeh, gado gado, and chicken curry. Dessert was an unusual roasted banana with condensed milk, cheese and chocolate (and yes, it totally works). For breakfast, I enjoy local rice cakes served with a savoury dipping sauce which are surprisingly good, tropical fruit and matcha-flavoured yoghurt.

We take a short tour of Quy Nhon which includes visiting those crumbling Cham edifices and drinking Vietnamese coffee. There are spectacular views of the city which sits along a curved, narrow peninsula like Cancun, without the crowds; plus we enjoy a local street food favourite of rice pancakes with shrimp and squid we posh-up with some BYO champagne.

Credit: Getty

The afternoon is left to relish what little time we have in these luxurious villas before departing to Hoi An on the train, which leaves about 6.29pm. It's the perfect opportunity to savour the sit-up bar and work your way through the cocktail list, or take a nap as the sun sinks over the horizon.

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thevietagetrain.com; traveller.com.au/vietnam

Seats start from $US711; price includes two nights' accommodation in Quy Non. The best time to make the trip is during the day while you can watch the scenery go by (going south); but there's a second trip up north that departs Quy Nhon at 6.29pm for Danang. Anyone can book a seat; passengers do not have to be guests of the hotel. .thevietagetrain.com/

See also: Anantara Hoi An review: Serene, affordable luxury in the heart of UNESCO heritage-listed town

See also: Anantara Quy Nhon review: Vietnam's new hidden hotspot set to lure luxury travellers