The must-do highlights of Barcelona in three days
By Paul Sullivan
Alongside its many must-see sights, Barcelona offers colourful local atmosphere in spades. Get the best of both with this three-day itinerary through some of its main neighbourhoods.
DAY ONE
Morning
Start at the southern (harbour) end of La Rambla, which bisects the Old Town’s two main districts: El Raval and the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter), both characterised by winding medieval lanes and scenic squares. Saunter north to sample the squeaky-toy hawkers, flower-sellers and human statues before diverting right onto Placa Reial to admire its towering palm trees and Antoni Gaudi-designed street lamps (his only municipal works); there are plenty of terrace cafes if you need a coffee or breakfast. From here, wind your way to the Barcelona History Museum (MUHBA) on the stately Placa del Rei for a multimedia overview of the city’s fascinating history; don’t miss the 4000-square-metre archaeological site below the square, which showcases Roman remains, nor the spectacular Temple d’August around the corner. A combi ticket gets you access to several other MUHBA sites, including a World War II bunker and Parc Guell.
Close by is one of the city’s key landmarks, the soaring Barcelona Cathedral. Constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries, this Gothic beauty boasts beautiful stained-glass windows and a couple of magnificent chapels. Take the lift up to the bell towers for winning city vistas. Close to the cathedral are the small network of streets that make up the former Jewish Quarter (El Call). Dating back to the 14th century, the biggest sight here is a tiny synagogue that dates back to 1391 and is still active today. Join the crowds in snapping a photo of the nearby neo-Gothic Carrer del Bisbe footbridge en route and if you need to beat the crowds for a few minutes, make your way to the usually tranquil Placa de Sant Felip Neri – usually much more tranquil than the hubbub all around. The baroque church here bears visible explosion damage from the Spanish Civil War.
Afternoon
Cross La Rambla to El Raval and duck into the bustling Boqueria Market for a bite. One of Spain’s oldest and biggest markets offers numerous great places to eat – El Quim’s huevos fritos con chipirones (fried eggs with baby squid) are justly famous. Refuelled, head south for a tour of Gaudi’s jaw-dropping Palau Guell, built for a Catalan industrialist. Meander north to absorb El Raval’s atmospheric streets and multicultural charms. While away the rest of the afternoon exploring the contemporary thrills of the CCCB Cultural, a multidisciplinary institution with exhibitions, festivals, concerts and films, and the city’s modern art museum (MACBA), set inside a dramatic building by Richard Meier.
Evening
There are drinking and dining options aplenty here. Try Pelai for seasonal Catalan cuisine or head to the pretty Placa d’Emili Vendrell to enjoy Cali-Mex at Chula Vista. The Carrer de Joaquin Costa is a great street for after-dinner drinks – try the lively hip-hop cocktail spot Two Schmucks before catching some live music at Jamboree. For something calmer, stroll over to the refined Sips (Carrer de Muntaner, 108) or back to La Rambla for a show at the historic Liceu Theatre.
DAY TWO
Morning
After breakfast, take the L4 metro line (or walk) out to Gaudi’s Parc Guell, whose wonderland of spiralling towers, wavy walls and mosaics are a must-visit. The Casa Museu Gaudi, where the famed architect lived for almost two decades, showcases a collection of his furniture and personal items. From the park, which is built on a hill, you’ll be able to see the idiosyncratic spires of Gaudi’s most famous structure – the Sagrada Familia. Head first to the remarkable Hospital de Sant Pau by Lluis Domenech i Montaner; one of the largest art nouveau sites in the world, its stunning ensemble of buildings and outdoor areas were created for convalescing patients. The Sagrada Familia, a 10-minute walk away, has been under construction constantly since 1880 and it’s still not quite completed, though they say it will be by 2026. Note that you’ll need a ticket at least a week or two in advance to view the vaults, stained glass and tower from inside, but admiring the impressive exterior is free.
Afternoon
Take the L5 metro or stroll 15 minutes to Casa Amalia, an elegant restaurant next door to the Concepcio market. After a delicious lunch, head to the Illa de la Discordia (Block of Discord), a section of the Passeig de Gracia where you can see four very different modernist buildings right next to each other: Casa Mulleras by Enric Sagnier, Lluis Domenech i Montaner’s Casa Lleo i Morera, Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller and Gaudi’s mesmerising Casa Batllo. His even more iconic Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera, is nearby, as are the chic boutiques of the elegant Passeig de Gracia. If you’re in the mood for art rather than shopping, the Antoni Tapies Foundation and Egyptian Museum are very close by, and the Espai Volart, which showcases contemporary Catalan artists, is a 20-minute walk towards Placa de Catalunya.
Evening
Drift over to L’Esquerra de l’Eixample, a pleasant, well-heeled neighbourhood full of swish restaurants and wine bars set amidst elegant 19th-century apartment blocks. Grab a vermouth or glass of wine at one of the many terraces – Wine Mood or Cellarer are both great options. For dinner, head to convivial Med-Lebanese spot Albe or enjoy a Michelin-starred culinary adventure at Disfrutar (book well ahead).
DAY THREE
Morning
La Ribera (also known as El Born) lies to the east of Via Laietana, next to the Gothic Quarter. It’s one of the oldest areas in Barcelona and one of the buzziest these days, brimming with indie art galleries, cool bars and restaurants and endless charming boutiques. The biggest sight here is the Picasso Museum, which houses one of the most extensive collections of artworks by the renowned artist – over 4000 works that span paintings, sculptures and ceramics. Right next door, the Moco Museum has a collection of contemporary works by renowned international names such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Damien Hirst and Banksy – but if you want to continue on the Picasso trail, head to Carrer d’Avinyo, the shop-lined street that once housed the painter’s fine arts school as well as the brothel portrayed in his Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. Then hop over to the Gothic Quarter for a drink or lunch at Els Quatre Gats, a former artist hangout that hosted one of Picasso’s first exhibitions. Alternatively, grab lunch and a natural wine at Bar del Pla.
Afternoon
Whether you’ve eaten or not, pop into the reinvented Santa Caterina market, a less-crowded version of Boqueria with some wonderful options for sips and nibbles. Admire the adjacent Gothic Santa Maria del Mar church before wandering over to the El Born Cultural Centre, a former market hall that now showcases excavated ruins of houses and streets from the 1700s. Right next door is the delightful Parc de la Ciutadella, the prettiest green space in the centre with pathways, fountains, sculptures and grassy lawns. It’s a wonderful place to stroll in the late afternoon sun, and also home to the city’s zoo and aquarium, as well as a couple of museums, if you’re looking to entertain the kids.
Evening
From the park, you can continue down to Barceloneta and enjoy a seaside stroll before settling in at a restaurant or beach bars for a sundowner and dinner. Alternatively, enjoy an aperitif and a snack in the secluded garden of the Antic Teatre, an abandoned theatre brought back to life in 2003, followed by a concert or dinner and guided tour of the landmark art nouveau Palau de la Musica Catalana.
If you plan to visit several museums, consider the Barcelona Card, which includes free entry to over 25 museums and attractions as well as free access to public transport.
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