The fairytale destination that inspired Disneyland’s iconic castle

Wearing his trademark Tyrolean hat, Andreas Nemitz stands, raises his shiny brass post horn and gives it a blast that echoes around the alpine countryside, on the first day of summer in Bavaria, Germany.

The melodic salute also marks the start of a five-day coach journey – it’s a tradition that once announced the arrival and departure of coaches at inns and toll gates. It can be heard up to 2.3 kilometres away, according to Andreas.

The journey begins at Lake Starnberg.Credit: iStock

We are perched in an elegant centuries-old carriage, drawn by Monty and Piast, two sure-footed dappled-grey Oldenburgs, a Polish breed of horse suited to farm work and coach travel.

It’s a 200 kilometre return trip leaving from Andreas’ farm between Lake Starnberg and Lake Ammersee, near Munich, following backroads, tracks and cobblestone streets, just like nobility did centuries ago.

We follow routes favoured by King Ludwig II, who ruled Bavaria from 1864 to 1886 and often travelled late at night to avoid his people.

Although legends refer to him as “mad” King Ludwig, he could surely build showstopper castles including Hohenschwangau, Neuschwanstein and Linderhof.

We are soon immersed in the quiet picturesque countryside dotted with small villages, monasteries, guesthouses and neat farms with whitewashed houses. Manicured gardens are filled with Queen Anne’s Lace, orange poppies, roses, horse chestnut trees, oaks, elms and elderberries.

The coach, the castles and the countryside.Credit: Richard Sloane/Andreas Nemitz

Meticulously stacked wood piles in varied patterns also intrigue. “It’s a German thing,” says Andreas, after we remark on householders’ creative efforts.

But it’s the landscape that commands our attention day after day – pretty, bold and majestic. At times the beauty is almost overwhelming, with streams and rivers snaking through farmlands, meadows that resemble velvety green carpet and vibrant coloured wildflowers.

We pass through tangled forests with well-worn tracks, sometimes glimpsing those fairytale castles in the distance.

It is a trip centred on sights, smells, sounds and scenery and I never tire of our horse-drawn travel.

“This is the life, no traffic, no rush,” says Andreas, who shares his stories gathered over 50 years of travelling the back roads of Germany, Austria and Italy with his much-loved horses and coaches.

The weather is kind with gentle sunshine and a light breeze and there’s a rug if it gets chilly and a carriage hood if it rains.

We travel up to 45 kilometres a day, pausing at historical sites and markers, lunching at cute country restaurants where we savour the season’s fresh white asparagus and stay at small four-star hotels, mixing with the locals.

Travellering by centuries-old carriage.Credit: Richard Sloane/Andreas Nemitz

One night we dine on pork with spaetzle and drink pilsner from tall steins and yes, there is a little dancing to an enthusiastic oompah band.

Among many highlights is a visit to Neuschwanstein Castle and anticipation grows as we see the castle in the distance – even Monty and Piast seem excited.

The inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty castle, it was built as a retreat and in honour of composer Richard Wagner, whom King Ludwick greatly admired.

It’s been a firm favourite on Andreas’ coaching tours, which he started in 1980, thanks to Middle-Eastern oil barons. “By turning off the oil valves in 1973, they unconsciously initiated the foundation of coaching in Bavaria,” Andrea explains.

Neuschwanstein Castle, the 19th century Romanesque Revival palace.Credit: iStock

A former apprentice in the Royal Private Stud Farm of Prince Ludwig of Bavaria, he rode young horses and drove four-and five-in-hand teams. In response to the oil shortages, he bought a horse and carriage to guarantee transport for his family.

“I thought one horse was nice, but two horses are nicer, then I thought four are even nicer and on it went,” says Andreas, recalling he had 16 at his busiest.

“Coaching is a special way to travel and a far cry from mass tourism – it’s the enchanting landscape of lakes and forests on the way to the royal castles that are so popular, and we get plenty of attention along the way.”

I soon become accustomed to my short-lived “princess moments”, waving back to those who stop to admire and applaud this slow travel mode of the past and pat Monty and Piast.

There’s plenty of time to smell the forests and freshly cut hay along the way – maybe King Ludwig wasn’t that mad after all.

THE DETAILS

Lake Starnberg is a 30-minute train ride from Munich, where guests are collected for the five-day King Ludwig Round Tour, which includes four nights’ accommodation and daily breakfast. It is priced from €1890 ($3075) a person. A seven-night Tuscany carriage tour is also available.
See coaching-in-bavaria.com

The writer was a guest of Coaching in Bavaria.