This was published 1 year ago
The 10 great hidden attractions in Tokyo most visitors miss
By Steve Wide and Michelle Mackintosh
You've slurped ramen with salary men, made a dawn trip to the fish market and braved the crowds on the Shibuya Scramble. Your Tokyo trip anecdotes have filled gatherings, house parties and drinks out with friends. But now you want to go deeper. Here are 10 things to do in Tokyo that will make you feel like a local.
Nippon Mingeikan Folk Crafts Museum
A tranquil walk from Komaba-Todaimae station makes for an enchanting a pilgrimage to a museum dedicated to the artisan skills of the everyday people. Mingeikan shows ceramics, basket weaving, lacquerware and textiles in a series of changing exhibitions. Opening in 1936, the museum's shows are superb, but they are almost overshadowed by the beautiful building, its spacious entrance hall and striking frontage. Mingeikan.or.jp
Paulista, Tokyo's first Kissaten
Smooth jazz, cosy seats, perfect coffee, what’s not to love? Kissaten wear their retro style with pride, a blend of Austrian cuckoo-clock chic, 20th century Americana, South American objet d’art and British train station lace. Paulista was established in 1911, making it the first Kissaten in Tokyo (and possibly Japan). The Ginza location is as excellent as the coffee. Order perfectly cut sandwiches, a cocktail glass of coffee jelly and some fluffy chiffon cake. Heaven. Try and get the booth where John and Yoko used to sit, it’s commemorated with a photo. paulista.co.jp
Gotokuji, Shrine of the Lucky Cat
A brief paws on anyone's cat-inerary, Gotokuji is a small shrine famous for being the birthplace of the maneki neko, or lucky cat. On this very spot a feudal lord was saved from lightening by a cat who beckoned him to shelter. The shrine is populated by many statues of the cute, waving felines. Get there on the Kofuku-no-Manekineko Densha, a cat themed train with paw print floors and cat handrails. Kawaii! Whilst not on the tourist trail, the shrine is loved by feline fans, so arrive early for photos. Don't forget to buy a small lucky cat for your desk. Purrfect! Gotokuji.jp
Soak in a Sento
If cleanliness is next to godliness, then a sento is a religious experience. These public baths are about as up-close and personal that you can to get with Tokyo locals, so shed your cares and your clothes and feel the neighbourhood vibes. Head to old school Asakusa to find some excellent long standing sento (try Tsurunoyu or Akebonoyu), but they can be found dotted all over Tokyo’s suburbs. Get your kit off and your onsen kit on and immerse yourself in sento culture. Remember the mantra – sento, beer, noodles, repeat.
Harmonica Yokocho
A compact rabbit warren of eateries, bars, kissaten and stalls lead off the Sun Arcade in Kichijoji, recalling the old-world atmosphere of Showa Era Tokyo. Growing from a post WWII black market, the network of confined alleyways features long standing sweets stores and a fishmonger that has been there for over 50 years. Make your way here after a day at nearby Ghibli museum and Inokashira Park. When the lanterns glow red, bars fling open their doors and the drinks start flowing.
Chofu
About 15 minutes by train from Shinjuku Station, Tokyo suddenly chills out in tranquil Chofu. Explore Jindaiji, Tokyo’s second-oldest temple, with roots extending back to 733AD. The atmospheric street leading to the temple sells souvenirs, street food and soba noodles. Nearby Jindai Botanical Garden, Tokyo’s biggest, covers 42 acres and a vast rose garden. The creator of classic manga series GeGeGe No Kitaro Shigeru Mizuki lived in Chofu, and is celebrated in a series of manhole covers and a cafe.
Eat like a sumo
Chunky protein loading never felt so good. In Ryogoku, try the Sumo meal of choice, chanko-nabe. The maximalist style of eating literally throws everything in the pot. The stew can include chicken, scallops, clams, salmon, tuna, root vegetables, tofu, and cabbage. Around Ryogoku station you’ll find long-standing, character-filled eateries that make the perfect Sumo feast, and you may even find yourself squeezed next to some of the wrestlers. Servings are huge, so walk it off exploring the nearby Sumo Stables.
The Sumida Hokusai Museum
Defying a resolutely suburban landscape, the Sumida Hokusai Museum is a glinting, angular monolith that guards the treasured work of famed woodblock artist Katsushika Hokusai. Designed by Sejima Kazuyo, it could be an avante-garde version of Hokusai’s The Great Wave Off Kanagawa. A series of exhibitions take you through his process, including detailed sketches and prints for the famous Hokusai Wave. Moving from one dim, atmospherically lit room to the next, you almost feel as if you are in the inner workings of the artist’s mind.
Nezu Shrine
The Nezu shrine is a perfect break from the city crowds and towering skyscrapers. One of the oldest temples in Tokyo, dating to 1705, the grounds feature a striking main hall and a water garden with an impressive planting of rhododendron. Photo opportunities abound here, including an impressively long vermillion torii gate tunnel and a charming bridge spanning a small lake in front of the Romon (tower gate), which is patrolled by two warrior guardians. nedujinja.or.jp
Kabuki-Za
Tragedy! Betrayal! Murder! Kabuki has it all. And we haven’t even started on the hair, makeup, costumes and elaborate sets. It’s atmospheric, moving and immersive, but you don’t have to take in a show to experience Kabuki. Head to Kabuki-za, originally built in 1889, but now rocking a 2013 facelift by Kengo Kuma. Features include a vibrant façade, rooftop garden, museum and teashop. The rough and tumble market in the basement sells bento boxes and omiyage (regional gifts) bearing the trademark Kabuki coloured stripes. kabuki-za.co.jp
Steve Wide and Michelle Mackintosh have produced many guidebooks on Japan, including the most recent Mindfulness Japan and Japan: A Curated Guide.
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