Thailand’s most unusual train ride is chaotic and surreal

Thailand’s Mae Klong Railway Market is one to watch out for. Quite literally.

A timeworn train passes through the 100-metre-long market eight times a day, almost bumping stalls along the way. Sellers swiftly rearrange their shops and remove shade structures on both sides of the track to make way for the oncoming locomotive. No wonder locals refer to the traditional market as Siang Tai (life-risking). It’s chaotic and surreal, but so is the mission to Mae Klong.

Mae Khlong market existed before the railway was built 100 years ago,Credit: Getty

The railroad market is 80 kilometres southwest of Bangkok, and it takes an hour and a half via car to reach Samut Songkhram province’s bizarre attraction. So why is the market in the thick of traffic? It existed before the railroad’s construction more than 100 years ago, giving new meaning to the old phrase ‘keep calm and carry on’ as merchants opted to stay put rather than relocate.

I am travelling solo, so joining a guided tour to visit the market makes sense economically. A full-day tour costs less than $50 and includes a guide and transportation via car to Ban Ka Long, one hour from the capital and the closest train station to Mae Klong Railway Market. It also includes visiting Thailand’s famous floating market, Damnoen Saduak, a 25-minute drive away from the railway market. The Thais really like to do things on the move, it seems.

Damnoen Saduak floating market.Credit: iStock

Now, out of Bangkok’s heavy traffic, the real adventure begins at Ban Ka Long station. There is nothing to separate people from the tracks, it’s just common sense to stand well away from the approaching train. I hop on the train and score prime position: a forward-facing window seat. The carriage rivals a sardine can, chockers of curious and snap-happy tourists. Everyone is onboard, the train’s horn sounds, and we’re off.

The half-hour ride journeys through the Thai countryside, chugging past rice paddies, villages and farmlands. I feel immersed in it with the window down, warm winds touching my sweaty skin as the train jolts from side to side. It’s a welcome respite from the muggy weather experienced while stationed.

We have almost arrived at our destination and already feel eyes upon us. Red and white boom gates are spotted at the intersection, and traffic is backed up behind it. The oddity is the crowds. I see a swarm of people fringing the tracks, many with their phones out, ready to capture the train that will soon pass them, sometimes centimetres between body parts. Their jovial presence feels like a welcome party, happy for our arrival. That excitement goes both ways.

Crowds gather for the passing train.Credit: iStock

The train slowly travels through the market. All these faces looking up and smiling, with people eagerly taking photos and waving (ah, so this is what fame feels like). From their point of view, I’m just one of many faces in a packed train, one small part of this absurd picture. Between people, I get a glimpse of vendors selling fruits and vegetables, desserts, souvenirs, meat, freshly caught fish in plastic pots, street food, you name it. As the train moves, it flies over items for sale that fringe the tracks – talk about a close encounter.

It’s time to join the masses and hop off at the station adjacent to the market. By the time we reach the market, stalls are reshuffled to their norm, with colourful parasols erected again to protect all from the scorching heat. My senses are going into overdrive. There’s so much capturing my attention: the neatly presented stands, spicy aromas from shoebox-sized cafes, the commotion of merchants and shoppers, and the fact I am strolling along tracks that are frequently used.

The walk will be short-lived. Twenty minutes later, another train is due to arrive. I am now a ground witness to minutes of mayhem. Like clockwork, sellers go to their positions. Shade coverings are rolled back up; pots are moved inwards to make way for the oncoming train. The train’s horn sounds. Tourists disperse on both sides of the tracks with phones held high to capture this crazy situation. I find my nook beside the track, with bowls of raw meat near my feet.

It’s an extraordinary scene, but not for locals, who appear blasé about the train dividing the market in two. I’m sandwiched between butcher cuts and a moving train, only too eager to watch on.

The details

Fly

Thai Airways flies direct to Bangkok from Sydney, Melbourne and Perth. See thaiairways.com

Tour

Half-Day Railway Market and Floating Market Tour in Thailand is from $44. See viator.com

The writer was a guest of the Tourism Authority of Thailand and travelled to Bangkok at her own expense.