The first-timer’s guide on how to choose a river cruise

On a river-cruise ship you can explore the interior of continents in ease and style.Credit: APT Touring

I love those moments in river cruising when I wake up, fling back my cabin curtains and find I've been transported overnight to another destination. Beyond the window there might be paddling swans below a gingerbread old town, or pagodas gleaming with gold on an emerald hillside. Follow a river and you're never short of sights. For centuries, rivers have been conduits of tribes, trade and culture. Their banks are crammed with museums, castles, temples, turreted towns and the latest hip neighbourhoods. Centuries of human effort have embellished lovely landscapes with castles and vineyards, or monasteries bonging with bells by muddy rivers.

On a river-cruise ship you can explore the interior of continents in ease and style. You face no grubby trains, no schlep between hotels, no bad meals in tourist traps. You have a controlled environment and no worries about travel's nitty-gritty. You just go with the flow. You disembark and stroll about, enjoying all that time you've saved on logistics. You float onwards. This is travel without trouble: here's how it works.

CONSIDER THE RIVER

Europe has the most varied cruise choices. The classic Amsterdam-Budapest route along the Rhine, Main and Danube is great for first-timers, taking you through five countries and combining landscapes, cities and small towns. For an introduction to Eastern Europe, Budapest-Bucharest on the Lower Danube is as varied.

For a more in-depth, one-country focus consider the Douro in Portugal, Venetian Lagoon in Italy or Elbe in Germany. France has three choices. The Rhone-Saone offers southern French culture, old towns and vineyards; the Seine covers Impressionists, Normandy and Paris. Cruises from Bordeaux concentrate on wine and food experiences.

Beyond Europe, expect larger ships and more sailing time. Politics has taken Myanmar and Russia off the map, and China's COVID-closed borders have nixed the Yangtze for now. That leaves the Ganges and Brahmaputra in India and the Mekong in Vietnam and Cambodia, where itineraries are partly land-based in order to see Angkor Wat.

America's two epic rivers are the Columbia-Snake for grand scenery and Mississippi for history, music and culture; itineraries usually run from New Orleans to Nashville or Memphis. You can however cruise a dozen more rivers such as the Ohio, Illinois and Hudson.

Other great cruise rivers include our own Murray, the Amazon and Senegal. A Nile cruise is fabulous, taking you through desert and rural landscapes and past temples and tombs.

CHOOSE GOOD COMPANY

River cruise companies have high standards, similarly sized ships and similar itineraries, so none disappoint. Differences, reflected in price, come down to decor, luxury levels, dining and inclusions. Study photos and information on cruise company websites to find a ship that matches your style. Click open full itineraries to evaluate whether excursions suit your interests.

APT and Scenic, plus their lower-priced alternatives Travelmarvel and Emerald, have majority Australian passengers. Other major players are Tauck (characterised by large cabins and fewer passengers) and Uniworld (boutique opulence and top-notch dining). Popular mid-range Viking flourishes on excellent organisation and standardised ships with sleek Nordic decor.

Most companies have some themed cruises but Avalon is king, with cruises focusing on wine, beer, music, golf, literature and more. Botanica has niche garden-themed cruises in Europe. Riviera Travel is notable for dedicated solo cruises.

European brands Amras, A-Rosa and Amadeus now market bilingual cruises to English speakers. Moderately-priced French line CroisiEurope sails unusual rivers such as the Loire, Guadalquivir, Sava and Tisza.

In America, American Cruise Lines and American Queen have been joined this year (on the Mississippi) by Viking.

GET PLANNING

Credit: Most river cruises are all-includive. Pictured: APT's meals.

Expect a river cruise to cost between $250 and $500 a person a night. Last-minute deals are now rare; booking a year in advance might bag you a discount or flights. Subscribe to cruise-line newsletters for specials and spot sales.

The most expensive peak seasons are May, June and September in Europe, November-February on the Mekong and October-January on the Nile. River cruises aren't geared to children, so school holidays have little influence on cost. In America, most cruises only operate June-September, so prices barely fluctuate.

River cruises are close to all-inclusive except on budget ships. Extras, if any, might be for airport transfers, premium drinks, drinks between meals, and some shore excursions. Gratuities are mostly included these days except in Asia and America, but tip local guides $5-15 depending on tour length and quality.

Don't forget you may need visas, and keep updated on the latest COVID regulations for the cruise company, airline and destination. Cruise passengers need to be fully vaccinated, and mask wearing is encouraged except when dining.

ROOM WITH A VIEW

In general, river ships have four room types: suites, cabins with balconies, cabins with picture windows, and waterline cabins with portholes. Interconnecting and inside cabins are rare. So are solo cabins, but supplements are sometimes waived. Tauck has no solo supplements on entry-level rooms in Europe.

Unless you're in a suite, tight cabins aren't made for lingering, so consider whether you really need a more expensive higher deck or balcony. Some cabins without a balcony actually have more internal space. If you're always socialising or onshore, a porthole cabin is great value.

Cabins have a boutique hotel vibe and amenities such as a television, coffee machine, rain shower and pillow menu. You'll have a narrow desk and armchair or two. Some balconies are Juliet strips while others have space for sitting.

Location doesn't matter as much as on an ocean ship, but you'll feel more engine vibration and noise the lower and further back you go. Book well in advance if you insist on a particular cabin category; mid-range cabins especially sell out quickly.

LIFE ON BOARD

River ships are small and passengers often go on shore, so don't expect the lively atmosphere of bigger ocean ships. Passengers are generally 50+ professionals or retirees with an interest in history, culture and gastronomy. Quiet conversation and reading are more likely than a party.

However, a certain level of sociability flourishes, especially at mealtimes. Tables are open seating but shared, though you might find limited tables for two. Conversation in lounges will float around you, if not at you, so cruises can be pleasantly convivial.

Main dining rooms are usually buffet style at breakfast and lunch and a la carte at dinnertime, with several options for each course. Dietary issues are well catered for. Most ships have a cafe with light meals and/or a fine-dining alternative, both with limited seating; the latter may be restricted to a visit or two. Smart-casual is expected. There are no formal nights.

Among the (very compact) facilities you'll find on river ships might be a swimming pool, hot tub, gym, hair salon or wellness suite.

GO WITH THE FLOW

Want to maximise your downtime? Sail upstream for added chats, cocktails and scenery gazing. Ships travel faster downstream, so choose that direction if you want to spend more time ashore. The difference isn't greatly apparent on short rivers (and Portugal's Douro and Bordeaux's rivers are so short that you sail in both directions), but is more significant on powerful rivers such as the Mekong and Mississippi.

Historic low water levels on European rivers are an increasing climate change issue that might see sailings cancelled or itineraries altered. August is the likeliest month to scrape bottom, especially on the Elbe, Loire and Upper Danube. Conversely, flash flooding (most common in April) can stop cruise ships from navigating beneath low bridges.

If either happens, you'll finish your journey in hotels and coaches. (Viking has enough ships to be able to swap passengers from one to another across short stretches of low river.) The cruise company will rearrange the journey, but you'll need travel insurance to cover anything you've booked separately.

HIT THE DECK

The huge pleasure of river cruising is that you're freed from the tyranny of driving, and are seldom beyond graceful landscapes. From mid-river you have 360-degree views, so you'll want to spend plenty of time on deck or looking through large lounge windows. Among top landscapes are Germany's Rhine Gorges, Austria's Wachau Valley, the Iron Gates in Serbia and Romania, the Yangtze Gorges in China, and the Columbia River's gorges in the US.

Pay attention to the daily newsletter, which lists upcoming sights and approximate times you'll pass them, or to the commentary on deck (if offered) so you don't miss notable landmarks. It would be a shame to have your back turned on Durnstein on the Austrian Danube, with its blue church and flower-draped houses, or Les Andelys on the Seine River, with its pale limestone cliffs, chimneypot village and crown of ruined castle.

Even rivers without dramatic landscapes have plenty of interest: buzzing village life, golden temples and passing ferries on the Mekong, elephants and hippos on Botswana's Chobe River, monkeys and macaws on the Amazon.

SHIP TO SHORE

Credit: Scenic

Although guided shore excursions are included, they're typically standard museum or palace visits or general walking tours in old towns. Nothing wrong with that for first-timers – or even second ones, since a good guide brings things to life.

Check alternatives, however. Increasingly cruise companies are looking to attract younger, more active and repeat visitors, so chances are you can visit Buddhist monasteries, engineering projects, cellar doors, indigenous communities, Cognac producers and truffle farms.

If you have an option not available to the general public, do it. It might be an exclusive cocktail reception at a German castle, after-hours (and crowd-free) experience at St Mark's Basilica in Venice, or a visit to a Vienna gallery with an expert art historian. Some of these might be included, though others attract additional cost.

Short talks each evening and a daily newsletter outline your options for the following day. You don't book excursions in advance as with ocean cruises, but might have to sign up for a particular excursion the evening prior if numbers are limited.

INDEPENDENCE DAYS

You aren't sent to the naughty corner for missing an organised tour. If you've pinpointed a particular museum, market or mountain you want to see for yourself then your only constraint is the ship's departure time. You can do the same river cruise a half-dozen times and never have the same port experiences.

Most inclusive tours last a half-day, so you often have another half to explore independently. Scenic's Tailormade app will take you on GPS-guided, walking tours with commentary. Some options focus on topics such as Mozart in Vienna and Rembrandt in Amsterdam.

Ships have a concierge who will supply local maps and recommend walking routes and sights. Some companies such as Uniworld and Emerald have e-bikes. A cycle along the Moselle River or Austrian Danube between Melk and Durnstein are scenic stunners.

You can get off ships any time they're in port. Early-morning walks can be tranquil and rewarding. There's no curfew. Port towns have a very different atmosphere after dark, so set out after dinner to admire illuminations or enjoy the nightlife.

THE MORNING AFTER

Don't rush away when your cruise ends. Cruise ships seldom linger long enough in disembarkation destinations for a comprehensive visit. Many cruises finish in top cities such as Budapest, Paris, Amsterdam or New Orleans, so take advantage and book a couple of hotel nights. If you don't want to go it alone, cruise companies provide city-stay options and short add-ons to nearby destinations such as Prague or Zurich not visited on cruises.

Many river cruises are short, lasting perhaps a week, while getting to them from Australia is long. Increasingly cruise companies are offering back-to-back river cruises or river-ocean combinations, such as Viking's Rhine and Norway cruises that connect in Amsterdam. Another option is cruise-rail packages. Uniworld, for example, partners with Golden Eagle Luxury Trains through Italy, Switzerland and the Balkans from cruises in Venice.

You can also add on land tours, such as APT's South America tour following an Amazon cruise, or Scenic's tour in Spain following a Douro cruise. What better way to counter the post-cruise blues?

HOW RIVER AND OCEAN CRUISING COMPARE

SIZE MATTERS

Ocean ships far outsize river ships. Don't river cruise if you're after a resort experience with abundant on-board amenities and entertainment. At most you'll get lectures, folk performances and cooking demonstrations. River-ship pools are puddle-sized and spas (if any) compact. Dining tends to be at communal tables, so prepare for sociability.

SPIRIT OF PLACE

Go on a river cruise if you want to focus on destination. You'll see port cities you can't reach on ocean ships and visit small towns and even isolated villages. Expect to be off the ship most of the day, especially in Europe, where sailing distances are short. There are no wasted days at sea; even while sailing, scenery unfurls.

LOCATION, LOCATION

With a few exceptions (such as Basel, Hi Chi Minh City and Vienna), river ships dock in city centres and avoid the hassles of port transfers. You can usually walk from ship to town centre, making it easy to explore independently, and to get back for a rest or lunch in between. Overnight docking isn't uncommon, allowing for evening exploration.

COST CONTROL

You won't find river cruises at $100 a night, but river cruises are more genuinely all-inclusive than ocean cruises. There are no extra-cost restaurants, entertainments or meal-time drinks. Shore excursions are included, though there may be cost-added alternatives. At the luxury end you'll find airport transfers, Wi-Fi, butler service and open bars included as well.

CHILD'S PLAY

River cruising isn't for children unless they're mature, quiet, culture-minded teenagers. (Even so, avoid wine-focused Bordeaux and Portugal cruises.) Most river-cruise companies have age restrictions, and ships have no kids' clubs or child-oriented pastimes. The exceptions are family sailings in Europe with Disney, Tauck and Uniworld.