Port Guide: Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Phnom Penh has overcome its horrible history and is enjoying an economic boom. Buckle up for an exciting and confronting exploration of a rapidly changing city.

Who goes there Such is the popularity of Mekong River cruises that almost every international river-cruise company is represented here, including APT, Aqua Expeditions, Avalon Waterways, CroisiEurope, Emerald, Scenic, Travelmarvel, Uniworld and Viking. Many combine cruising with a land-tour component that takes in Hanoi in Vietnam and Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Boom town – Phnom Penh’s Central Market.Credit: iStock

Sail on in Phnom Penh has a long way to go before it will be described as beautiful, but as you sail into the city in the early morning on a wide, sluggish brown river past outlying shantytowns, it puts on its most attractive face. Traditional Khmer architecture clashes with newly sprouted skyscrapers, and the golden roofs of the royal palace wink in the sun. Construction cranes dot the horizon of this city undergoing an economic boom, and the river is crowded with ferries and boats.

Berth rites There’s no cruise terminal. Ships tie up at quays such as Sisowath Quay along the Tonle Sap River, a tributary of the Mekong. You’ll easily find a cheerful cafe or bar for a drink, and the city centre is a short 10-minute tuk-tuk ride away. You could make it to the Royal Palace in a sweaty 20 minutes on foot, although cruise companies all offer included excursions to the city’s highlights.

Going ashore Visits to the Khmer Rouge’s infamous S-21 jail and Killing Fields are confronting but an important aspect of Cambodia’s history that ought to be witnessed. The National Museum displays a millennium’s worth of superb Khmer artefacts, including sculptures from Angkor Wat. Wat Phnom is a city landmark, but the hillside temple can’t match many others in South-East Asia. Otherwise, make a beeline for Central Market or the more authentic Russian Market, which are crammed with souvenirs, ceramics, clothing, cheap jewellery and fake watches. Street 178 and Street 240 have more upmarket boutiques and art shops.

Don’t miss The Royal Palace, which dates from the 1860s, is a complex of dainty marble-white pavilions and temples crowned with glittery, multi-coloured roofs, all set amid clipped gardens and topiary. The highlights are the golden Throne Hall and Silver Pagoda, which houses a revered diamond-encrusted Buddha. The royal compound behind high walls is a tranquil oasis in the cacophony and bustle of the city.

Get active Although downtown Phnom Penh is relatively compact and many of its sights not far from the river, the humidity and ferocious traffic will likely put you off walking. Your best option might be to join the retirees who practise their tai chi and dancing on the waterfront – or to stick to your air-conditioned gym on board.

Best bites This is a great city for street eateries, noodle shops and small restaurants, so you’re never far from a snack. Among dishes to try are num banh chok (rice noodles with fish sauce and abundant herbs), baguette sandwiches, rice-flour pancakes with coconut cream, barbecued pork ribs and the national dish, fish amok, which is a spicy coconut curry. Sisowath Quay, the riverfront generally and the city centre are full of dining options. Central Market is surrounded by Chinese restaurants.

Further afield Not far upstream lies Koh Oknha Tey, a Mekong island of farmers and fishers that still feels rural. It’s known for its silk weaving, with village women producing some of Cambodia’s most sought-after textiles on old-fashioned wooden looms. Excursion guides show you how silkworms are fed, silk spun, and textiles woven, and of course you’ll get the opportunity to shop.