Nine surprising things in the NT’s best-kept secret

With its diverse landscapes, easy-to-access wilderness and expansive views, there are many ways that Litchfield will surprise you.

It’s one of NT’s best kept secrets

Litchfield National Park is just a 90-minute drive from Darwin and most of its visitors are locals, who escape the tourist crowds by driving just a few minutes up the road. When we visited Buley Rockhole on a Saturday, it was heaving with the beer and boombox crowd but after a 15-minute drive, we were soaking up the pristine isolation of Tolmer Falls, without another visitor in sight.

You can visit in the wet season

During the wet season waterfalls, such as the magnificent Wangi Falls, really turn it on.

It’s not altogether true that you should only visit the Top End in the dry, from May to October. The humidity is lower during these months, but many locals will tell you the wet is actually their favourite season.

They say there’s nothing better than sitting atop one of Litchfield’s craggy lookouts to see the monsoon clouds roll in. It’s at this time of year that the crowds die down, the waterfalls go berko and bone-rattling storms remind you of nature’s power.

Litchfield’s mostly bitumen roads make visiting during the wet a possibility – though you might be more comfortable if you go with an organised tour. That way you’ll avoid getting bogged and learn about the best places to enjoy your experience from insiders.

It’s really small

Termite mounds are commonly found in Litchfield National Park.

Litchfield National Park covers 1461 square kilometres – about 14 times smaller than Kakadu – which means you can duck from one attraction to the next in minutes. You don’t even really need to plan, as everything is so accessible.

It’s entirely possible to see the national park in a day trip from Darwin, but we were glad we took the whole weekend as there was plenty to do and it meant we could enjoy the incredible sunsets without having to worry about getting back.

It’s really, really remote

Don’t be fooled – you’ll know you’re in remote Australia here. Phone reception ranges from limited to non-existent and there are crocodiles in the water.

Swim only in designated areas and take note of the park safety signs. Bring plenty of water, pack your food into an esky and carry a first-aid kit.

Crocodiles aren’t the only fauna

A bowerbird next to its impressive nest on the ground.

We were driving into the sunset when a massive white brahman cow emerged from the scrub and sauntered across the road. I really didn’t expect to see that. If you’re lucky, you might see a wallaroo, rock wallaby, python, sugar glider, flying fox or even a dingo. There’s also plenty here for bird watchers, including bowerbirds and the endangered Gouldian Finch. But, of course, fauna can be elusive. Take a special wildlife tour from Darwin to increase your chances of seeing something.

Yes, you can glamp

Glamping is one way to experience the Top End.

We stayed at peaceful Litchfield Safari Camp, just outside the park’s western entry. It’s the only place in Litchfield that offers glamping tents, along with cabins and powered and unpowered sites.

Our spacious tent had a fully equipped kitchenette, bathroom with hot water and a large private front deck. Falling asleep in air-conditioned comfort surrounded by the sound of frogs and waking to the birds’ chorus was unforgettable.

Other accommodation options in the park include Litchfield Tourist Park and Litchfield Outback Resort. There are designated campgrounds at Central Valley, Florence Falls, Walker Creek or Wangi Falls.

Fire may not be what it seems

In August 2023, about 3600 hectares of the park burnt in a bushfire, and locals are calling for better fire management practices.

Arson is a big worry, says Rob Woods, chief executive of Darwin’s Ethical Adventures . He reckons fires are lit regularly, with devastating consequences for the park’s biodiversity. Park rangers use planned burns to help manage the fire risk, but this can lead to smoky conditions.

During our visit in May, the smoke was so thick in some areas that we couldn’t see the views. If you’re worried, check with NT Parks and Wildlife before you go, or monitor the air quality on the AirRater app.

Diversity plus

Litchfield National Park has a diverse range of environments and sights including termite mounds and misty mornings.

Litchfield is known for the diversity of its landscapes and ecosystems. As well as the cascading waterfalls, you’ll see stone country, wetlands and cool monsoon rainforest, where butterflies swarm at your feet. Or you can visit the Lost City, with its towering sandstone pillars weathered over thousands of years. One of the most impressive sights in the park are the termite mounds, some of them metres high, others made by magnetic termites and all facing in one direction.

Walk your own way

Walkers may come across the sandstone formations known as the Lost City.

Most of the walks in Litchfield are short, but consider how heat and humidity makes some of the climbs more challenging than you expect.

Litchfield is great for families and people with accessibility issues, as there are inviting swimming holes with easy walks right to the water’s edge. Wangi Falls, for example, is wheelchair accessible.

Experienced walkers might consider undertaking the Tabletop Track, a 39-kilometre loop through the wilderness. Walkers need to be fit and well-prepared as there are minimal facilities along the way.