Nine must-do highlights of Lima, Peru

The stay

There’s remarkably stiff competition when it comes to accommodation in the Barranco and Miraflores neighbourhoods. These affluent areas of this often chaotic city are where you’ll find the majority of Lima’s best hotels, and while picking just one is a tough ask, the nod goes to Hotel B. Distinct from many of its nominal rivals, it’s an art hotel coupled with a great cocktail bar, all cleverly designed within a historic building. As stylish as it looks, it falls on the right side of pretentiousness and its rooms are as comfortable as any you’ll find in the city. See hotelb.pe

Rooftop at Hotel B, an art hotel within a historic building

The restaurant

Lima has grown a reputation as South America’s premier foodie destination after years of domestic chefs making creative use of national produce. In fact, Central has been rated as officially the very best restaurant in the world, but while it’s almost impossible to get a seat there, for something less formal yet still dazzling, head to Merito (number 59 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants longlist of 100). Head chef Juan Martinez may come from Venezuela, but he’s very much at home in the Peruvian capital. A fusion of dishes from around the country plus his homeland is served in this small Barranco restaurant and while the menu changes quite regularly, you’ll always be able to order his sensational corn dish. See meritorestaurante.com

The drink

There’s been hot-faced debate between Peru and Chile over who pisco really belongs to for over a century, but down in the Museo del Pisco few people are willing to consider a debate. While there is technically a museum here, most people come simply for tastings, either of varieties they’ve been recommended, or one of the flights laid on by the knowledgeable bar staff. If you’re a newcomer to the drink, it makes sense to come here before moving on elsewhere and tearing into the spirit’s most famous iteration, the Pisco Sour. See museodelpisco.org

The historic site

The pre-Incan pyramid, Huaca Pucllana.

Moneyed Miraflores has many jewels available for sale, but surprisingly it has some being discovered, too. Despite being 1600 years old, the seven-staged pre-Incan pyramid known as Huaca Pucllana is still being excavated in the heart of Lima. Daily tours and an on-site museum are available to help you better understand the complex society that would have lived here long before Columbus arrived from Spain. Occasionally this spectacular site is used for special events, including cultural shows, and night tours when the old place feels most alive. See huacapucllanamiraflores.pe

The museum

Artefacts on display in the Larco Museum.

Most visitors flying into Lima move quickly from Jorge Chávez International Airport into slightly more relaxed and relaxing neighbourhoods, but if you’ve got a little extra time or perhaps a long stopover, the relatively nearby Museo Larco is perhaps the finest museum anywhere in the country. The enormous intelligence, ambition, and cruelty of Peru’s forefathers are expertly detailed here through thousands of pre-Columbian artefacts and artworks. From antique farming techniques to the positively dizzying number of fertility statues, there’s something for everyone, but if somehow none of that interests you, the on-site restaurant is a fine place to hang out, too. See museolarco.org

The market

Souvenir shopping at Indian Market.

There’s a good chance that if you’ve already been to Peru’s Sacred Valley or its remarkable section of the upper Amazon that you’ll be fully loaded with souvenirs, but if not then head to the Feria Artesanal or Indian Market. Yes, it is undeniably aimed at tourists and it’s not the cheapest you’ll find anywhere in the city, but English is spoken, prices are clearly labelled, and the selection is unrivalled. Knitwear, including the distinctive woolly hats known as chullos, masks, and innumerable alpaca-wool jumpers are among the many items on offer.

The beach

Lima can feel so industrial and hectic that it’s sometimes possible to forget that the Peruvian capital is a coastal city. A walk around the Malecon area is an ideal way to remind yourself of the setting – cliff-top walkways look out to the mighty Pacific, but you’re likely to be distracted by the sight of daring paragliders making the most of the updrafts swirling from the ocean. Malecon stretches for about 10 kilometres, but there’s easy access down to Costa Verde beach if you fancy having a paddle. Meanwhile if you’re looking for something more involved, Team Surf Peru offers surfing and stand-up paddleboarding in the middle of the city. See teamsurfperu.com

The religious site

Extraordinary historic architecture.

At almost 500 years old, the Basilica and Convent of Santo Domingo are significant to people far beyond Catholic worshippers. One of the oldest surviving European religious sites anywhere in South America, its architecture is remarkable, a labyrinthine combination of libraries, cloisters, tombs and chapels. It’s not always been so tranquil – during the violent days of the Conquistadors, the place was also used as a prison and a court for the Spanish Inquisition. One of the highlights for many visitors is the chance to explore the ever-eerie catacombs below the main complex. See conventosantodomingo.pe

One more thing

As improbable as it seems, there’s a day trip from Lima to the Palomino Islands that offers a chance to interact with some pretty extraordinary marine life. This little archipelago is home to dozens of sea-lions and certain companies offer the chance to snorkel with these inquisitive animals. Many more people simply come to see the birdlife, which includes Peruvian pelicans and Inca terns, as well as hundreds of guanay cormorants. Perhaps the stars of the show, however, are the Humboldt penguins, which can be found here in one of their northernmost populations. See tourinperu.com

The writer travelled as a guest of Journey Latin America. See journeylatinamerica.com