Like Bali in the 1970s: This island on our doorstep remains unspoiled

A flying DeLorean would be the only way to go back in time to visit an unspoiled Bali in the almost mythical 1970s. The next best thing may be a trip to Atauro, pronounced Ut-a-oo-row, just a short trip offshore from Dili, the picturesque capital of our struggling neighbour, Timor-Leste.

Beachfront at Atauro Island.Credit: iStock

Consistently rated one of the top scuba diving sites in the world and still unspoiled by mass tourism, Atauro has thankfully avoided being turned into a resort destination. Those who do not insist on a swim-up bar and can manage without air-conditioning, can instead enjoy the dried fish and barbecue squid at the local markets, an outrigger canoe fishing trip, jungle walks or the snorkelling and diving.

A 10-minute flight from the Mission Aviation Fellowship hangar at the rustic Dili airport involves the potential embarrassment of each passenger being weighed before clambering aboard the six-seater plane. The alternative is a ferry trip across the Wetar Strait, taking just a few hours. The scenic airborne-hop is a pricier but softer option, complete with spectacular low-altitude views and the chance to do some casual whale spotting.

The MAF pilot (“Yes, I am from NZ … who said Kiwi’s don’t fly?”) deposits us at the island’s dirt and grass strip set on a rare flat stretch of land skirting the beach, midway between the small market community of Beloi and the administrative centre of Vila Maumeta. There are no buildings, tarmac or signs. Buffalo graze just far enough away to not be a hazard. Neither town could be described as a surging metropolis. There are no ATMs, patchy mobile coverage and electricity is either solar or from generators. Island time prevails.

The flight with MAF.Credit: Jon Faine

We reclaim our luggage (limit one mid-size bag) from the locker under the plane, walk across to the dirt road and clamber onto the bench seats lining the rear tray of a waiting tuk-tuk to rattle along a pot-holed road to our accommodation. There are only a few options to choose from, and all offer similar clean, comfortable but basic facilities.

Eco-tourism and sustainability are the guiding principles for “Barry’s Place” a collection of raised huts set within a lattice of paths weaving through tidy tropical gardens. Some are family-sized accommodation, some have two single beds, some a double. Each hut boasts a thatched roof, solar lighting and mosquito nets.

Spotlessly clean, a plastic tub with fresh water sits at the doorstep to wash the sand from my feet, an inviting hammock strung between the verandah posts swings in the slight breeze. The glistening beach and tempting warm water are but 10 steps from my door.

Shared bathrooms are dotted around the complex, with drop toilets and creatively tiled shower rooms. There is no plumbing, instead a gravity shower (or Mandi) is provided – last experienced at Scout camp a million years ago. It is simplicity itself – a large old cooking pot, spiked with dozens of holes punctured through the base, is filled with water from the adjacent trough and hoisted onto a nail on the ceiling beam. The cool water cascade washes away the salt and sand after a soothing swim.

A canoe on the water off Atauro – the island is one of the best scuba sites in the world.Credit: iStock

Atauro is famous for more than diving. Bonecas de Atauro is a renowned women’s sewing and craft co-operative, celebrated for generating sustainable social and economic benefits in one of the world’s poorest nations. Working with manual treadle machines, Bonecas is famed for brilliantly creative stuffed dolls and toys and stunningly complex embroidered cushions, satchels and bags. It proves impossible to resist the colourful offerings at prices that seem absurdly cheap by our standards (I refuse to haggle) but represent high incomes for the locals.

The exceptionally deep-water straits between Atauro and Dili create one of the world’s great “whale highways” as the once-endangered giants commute between the Pacific and Indian oceans. It is not unusual in season from October to December for whales to be within a few hundred metres of the shore. The island values its growing reputation as a marine sanctuary and the potential for attracting tourists as a nature destination is the key to future jobs and prosperity.

There’s a whale highway off the coast of Atauro.Credit: iStock

Getting the balance right – protecting the environment and the culture while being more accessible to tourists – is not a challenge unique to the people of Atauro. May we hope they manage it better than many others have in our neighbourhood.

THE DETAILS

Visa
A 30-day tourist Visa is required for Timor-Leste and can be bought for $US30 on arrival at Dili airport. Only US dollars in cash are accepted. There is no credit card or EFTPOS option nor is there a currency exchange at the airport – you must take $US with you from Australia.

Fly
Qantas and AirNorth service Dili direct from Darwin with fares ranging from $590 and $875 return, depending on the carrier and the day of the week. See qantas.com; airnorth.com.au

Flights with MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) cost $US150 ($230) return from Dili airport. Flying time is 20 minutes. Strict size and weight limits on luggage are enforced. The plane carries a maximum five passengers and usually departs Monday, Wednesday and Friday.
See maf-timorleste.org

Ferry
There are several ferry services between Dili Port and Atauro. On Tuesdays, the Success takes three hours and costs $US5. On Thursdays and Saturdays the Dragon fast ferry takes 1 hour and 15 minutes; $US12 upstairs or $US10 downstairs. On Saturdays the Nakroma takes 2 hours and 15 minutes, and costs $US4.
Tickets must be purchased at the port the day prior to travel.

Transfer
A tuk-tuk style three-wheel bike will bounce passengers along the rutted rode from either the ferry port at Beloi or the airstrip to your accommodation. Negotiate a $US cash fare with the driver but be generous.

Stay
Barry’s Place has a website (barrysplaceatauro.com) and as the site explains “due to the sporadic internet connection [as well as our lifestyle] Barrys Place regrets to advise we are unable to do any online bookings.” Bookings and inquiries can only be made through WhatsApp [phone].

Other accommodation on Atauro includes Beloi Beach Hotel (beloibeachhoteltimorleste.com) and Compass Diving (compassdiving.com). Both will arrange water taxi or motor launch transfers from Dili to the island for guests. Specific diving packages are available through Compass.

The writer travelled at his own expense.