It’s one of the world’s greatest cruise experiences, but few Aussies do it

It’s the first night of the cruise and the comedian is already running out of material. After a few cringy jokes fall flat, she calls on the audience for some time-filling assistance.

“Where y’all from?” she asks several hundred assembled passengers in Norwegian Jewel’s Stardust Theatre.

The crowd roars in reply. I hear Ecuador, Peru, Panama, Costa Rica, Colombia, Mexico, the United States and Canada. What I don’t hear is one ’Strayan.

Panama City from above.Credit:

In the realm of amazing cruise experiences, a transit of the waterways and intricate locks of the engineering miracle that is the Panama Canal ranks near the top for many, but it seems not for many Australians.

Setting off on a nine-day voyage to ports in Central and South America and the Dutch Caribbean, I’m excited to visit several countries for the first time, including Panama. Vibrant cultures, intriguing history, exotic wildlife and incredible food await.

Cruising is always good for its “mixed lolly bag” of travel experiences, and in this part of the world, the variety is rich and enticing. Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao, Costa Rica and Colombia are all on the menu, a fantastic opportunity to spend a day here and there, to get an idea of where I’d like to return for a longer stay.

It all begins in Panama City, the capital of the Republic of Panama, and in the old town, Casco Viejo, young chefs are making their mark. Jose Olmedo Carles Rojas changes the menu daily at his restaurant Fonda Lo Que Hay, which translates as “Whatever’s Available”. I nab the last available seat at the bar, the perfect spot to watch the team hustle through dinner service.

The Norwegian Jewel at sea.Credit:

My meal is a random assortment of delicious bites, including crispy rice cakes with roasted tomato jus, chicken pho broth (just the broth, served in a teapot) and tuna carpaccio on toasted yucca.

After dinner, I browse the old town for souvenirs, picking up cute beaded earrings for a few dollars and a packable Panama hat. The sales assistant tells me that despite the name, the hats are in fact produced in Ecuador.

Next morning, I book an Uber to the new Fuerte Amador Cruise Port. The journey takes more than 30 minutes from downtown and costs just $US6 ($9), an amount that seems too low to be fair. I tip in cash.

Norwegian Jewel passes beneath Centennial Bridge on the Panama Canal.

Embarkation of almost 2000 passengers lasts several hours, and then we’re off, headed to the Panama Canal. An estimated 14,000 ships from 180 countries make the transit each year, paying hefty tolls that contribute to a $US4 billion annual goldmine for the government.

Linking Central and South America, Panama punches above its size in global trade and politics, mainly because of that famous canal. Completed in 1914, the 77-kilometre artificial waterway was carved from the thickest jungle, home to monkeys, toucans and poisonous snakes.

One of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World, the Panama Canal has been called the world’s greatest shortcut, a time-saving transit connecting the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. The arduous construction began in 1881 and cost an estimated 22,000 workers their lives, defeated by the oppressive heat, tropical diseases and workplace accidents.

Cruise passengers, of course, know no such hardships. During the 10 hours it takes to transit the canal from one ocean to the other, we are treated to pastries and panoramic views in the Spinnaker Lounge, sparkling wine on the open decks and informative commentary throughout.

Next morning, we wake up in Costa Rica, greeted on the dock in Puerto Limon by a calypso band and tour-spruiking salesmen. I pay $US20 to join a group excursion to a local beach, banana plantation, tropical fruit stand and sloth sanctuary.

Local colour in Cartagena.Credit:

Our single stop in Colombia is vibrant Cartagena, the historic port city that is now almost too popular for its own good. The heat and humidity is brutal, so I focus on my mission for the day – to buy an emerald ring. The bright, saturated green gems mined in Colombia are said to be the best in the world. At Caribe Jewelry Museum & Factory, I haggle firmly with the sales assistant, spend more than I planned to and walk away with a gorgeous cocktail ring that’s definitely, maybe a real emerald. Fingers crossed.

Much lower stakes and cruisier days are enjoyed bouncing around the “ABC” islands of the Dutch Caribbean. In Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao, less than 100 kilometres north of Venezuela, there are almost as many pink flamingoes as people. The islanders are citizens of the Netherlands, the beaches are spectacular and the colonial-era buildings are painted Easter egg hues.

Back on the ship, announcements are made in Spanish and English to cater to the majority of Spanish-speaking passengers on this sailing. Christened in 2005 (by godmother Melania Trump, no less) and given a bow-to-stern refresh in 2018, Norwegian Jewel is one of the older ships in NCL’s fleet. The over-the-top decor of the main dining room, Tsar’s Palace, hasn’t aged well and reminds me of a Chinese restaurant in Sydney that my family frequented in the 1980s.

Oranjestad, capital of Aruba in the Caribbean.Credit:

Much more lively is O’Sheehan’s pub, with sports telecasts, beers on tap and a comfort food menu of nachos, burgers and pretzel bites. The pool bar is one of the busiest venues on the ship, and for-fee dining at the Brazilian churrascaria restaurant and teppanyaki grill is tasty and entertaining.

The ever-popular buffet fare has been tweaked towards spicier palates, offering delicious prawn curry, jerk chicken, beef empanadas, yucca fries and Cuban roast pork. Multiculturalism on the plate is a beautiful thing. I hope more Aussies come here and take a bite.

The best of the ports: what to see and do

Panama City, Panama
The old town, Casco Viejo, is the place to be. Shop for a Panama hat, try local restaurants and enjoy rooftop cocktails. Cruise passengers see the Panama Canal up close during the transit, but if you want more information, visit the Panama Canal Museum.

Cartagena, Colombia
With cobblestone streets, colourful colonial buildings and shaded squares, the 16th century historic walled town is just begging to be photographed. Try on emerald jewellery or feel the buzz from a strong local coffee.

Puerto Limon, Costa Rica
It’s not the prettiest part of Costa Rica, but it’s a good starting point for shore excursions. Check out Pura Vida natural wonders, including the rainforest, Tortuguero Canals, sloth sanctuary and Playa Bonita.

Willemstad, Curacao
The best swimming and diving is on the western side of the island, where coral reefs teem with marine life. In the capital, Willemstad, Dutch colonial buildings line the waterfront and house several museums.

Oranjestad, Aruba
With ocean water so vibrantly turquoise, you’ll risk sunburn just to stay in a little longer. Friendly Aruba is set up for tourists, with an island-wide public bus system, great shopping, museums, bars and restaurants.

THE DETAILS

FLY
Qantas operates non-stop flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Dallas-Fort Worth, with non-stop connections to Tampa on partner carrier American Airlines. See qantas.com.au

CRUISE
A 14-day Panama Canal: Costa Rica & Dominican Republic cruise, departing Tampa, Florida, in January 2025 aboard Norwegian Jewel, is priced from $4260 a person, including NCL’s Free at Sea bonus offers. See ncl.com

The writer travelled as a guest of NCL.