In Korea, drinking is a national sport – with strict rules

Drinking is a sport in Korea. It might even be their national sport, despite what Wikipedia will tell you. I saw way more Koreans drinking than I ever saw practising taekwondo, so from where I’m sitting, the maths checks out.

Much like any other competitive sport, this one, too, comes with a complex set of rules that can be confusing to the casual observer. There are fouls, faux pas, and formalities that must be followed lest you inadvertently cause offence. Here’s some guidance so you can kick off on the right foot (before you inevitably trip over it later).

The national sport? Seoul’s Insadong entertainment district.Credit: Getty Images

The first rule is that you should never pour your own drink. To do so would be considered impolite for reasons that are rooted in old customs. Just know that a Korean will never let your drink get empty and you, too, should return them this favour.

While the eldest person at the table should get the honour of pouring the first drink, following this it should be the youngest who pours for their elders as a sign of respect. This might seem straightforward until you’re surrounded by ageless Koreans who could be anywhere from 20 to 45, which means you’ll have to make many educated guesses on this one.

Another important part of drinking etiquette is to pour and receive drinks with both hands. This was one of the more difficult things to master as my hands are large and uncoordinated – trying to hold a soju glass with two of them was a bit like milking the world’s smallest cow.

Be sure to follow the rules.Credit: iStock

The best way to do this is by pouring or accepting the drink with your right hand and holding your wrist with your left hand. If you want to go even deeper than this, you should also turn your head away when you take a sip. It’s another sign of respect, but I doubt any Koreans will hold you to this formality.

Something to prepare yourself for in Korea is that when one drinks, one must eat as well. To suggest drinking without the addition of some sort of salty snack would be like suggesting you jump out of a plane without a parachute. This makes it difficult to find venues that cater exclusively to drinking.

A night out in Korea usually involves bouncing between venues where you will eat, drink, and eat some more. Pace yourself on the food, it’s not expected that you finish everything. In fact, most Koreans leave a not insignificant amount of it on their tables behind them. This goes against all my Catholic guilt, but you should know that Korea has an ingenious way of dealing with food waste which involves converting it into fuel, fertiliser, and farm feed, so don’t feel too bad about leaving that last piece of pajeon.

It should also be said that Korea has some unique, very Korean drinks that you may have heard of. Soju, for example, is one of the best-selling liquors in the world and I have no idea why. The stuff is spectacularly average, but that doesn’t stop people here from drinking it like water.

It is a low-alcohol liquor that often gets mixed with beer in a drink called a somaek (maekju being the Korean word for beer). The mere existence of this drink is all the evidence I need for the sport/drinking comparison.

Some food on the side (here a seafood pancake) with some makgeolli pouring.Credit: Getty Images

Then you have a delicious drop called makgeolli (pronounced “mark holly”) that will kill you if you’re not careful. It’s a milky, sparkling rice wine you drink out of these fun little bowls.

What’s less fun is the hangover it can give you. It almost killed me once and I’m too scared to try it again lest it return to finish the job. If you come to Korea, you absolutely must drink makgeolli, just don’t drink seven bottles of the stuff in one night.

These are the basics. The only way to learn the rest is by coming to Korea, which I can’t recommend enough. The country is one of the most welcoming in the world, particularly to those who partake in the national sport.

THE DETAILS

DRINK
To learn more about makgeolli, Baekusaeng Makgeolli offers classes on how to make your own. From KRW105 ($115). See baekusaeng.com

FLY
Direct budget flights to Seoul are available with Jetstar (jetstar.com) or T’way Air (twayair.com). Full-service airlines Korean Air (koreanair.com) and Asiana (flyasiana.com) also offer daily flights.

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The writer travelled at his own expense.