I tackled a road trip through regional NSW in an EV. Here’s how it went

It’s not a good start. Sliding into the driver’s seat of my rental Tesla Model Y, I notice that the car’s battery is only 43 per cent full, not the “at least 77 per cent” Avis promises on its website, which means I don’t have enough charge to reach my first stop. The car has also been left in a loading zone in Sydney’s CBD, so while I frantically try to find the nearest charger, I have a city ranger shouting unspeakable things at me through the window. Minutes into my quest to see how feasible it is to do a road trip through regional NSW in an electric vehicle (EV) and already I’m suffering from “range anxiety”.

Charging up in Parkes, NSW.Credit: Rob McFarland

Thankfully, Elon has my back. When I enter my first destination, Mayfield Garden near Oberon, into the car’s control tablet/GPS, it automatically routes me via a bank of Tesla superchargers in Blaxland. During the 15 minutes it takes the battery to reach 80 per cent, I have a coffee and pick up useful tips from a fellow Tesla driver who’s also stopped for a top-up. It’s the first of many such interactions, some in person at charging stations, others a subtle nod or a wave from a passing EV. I feel like I’ve unwittingly joined a private members’ club.

The plan is to spend a week exploring Central West NSW, visiting cities like Bathurst and Orange, but also smaller towns such as Parkes and Rockley. While the main aim is to test the logistical feasibility of tackling such a trip in an EV, I’m also keen to see what’s new and notable in this often underrated region.

Go forth and charge

As a non-car-owning city dweller who’s never driven an EV, I embark on this journey with limited knowledge and zero experience. But it’s a doddle. The car itself is a joy to drive – smooth, silent and thrillingly quick – plus it’s fitted with a multitude of sensors, cameras and gadgetry that ease the pain of navigation, traffic and parking. Most surprising is that it’s fun – the battery pack gives it a low centre of gravity so it feels like a go-kart on all those wiggly country roads.

Any concerns about charging facilities are allayed as soon as I download PlugShare, an invaluable free app that provides the location, cost, power output (determining charging speed) and plug type (different EVs use different plugs) of chargers all over the country. Tesla has its own network of speedy superchargers, but the NRMA has also built up an impressive array (124 in NSW at the time of writing – accessible via the NRMA app), plus there are third-party providers such as Evie and Chargefox.

While you have to pay for all the above, many attractions and accommodation providers allow you to top-up for free. While I’m not surprised to find a charger at the National Motor Racing Museum by Mount Panorama, I am shocked to discover one in a field outside nearby Abercrombie House, a grand, heritage-listed Scottish Baronial-style mansion. Owner Christopher Morgan tells me that Tesla installed it in 2017 because they wanted chargers at popular attractions in regional NSW.

One electricity-free location – the Parkes Observatory.

At first I’m disappointed there aren’t any charging facilities at Parkes Observatory, home to Murriyang, the iconic 64-metre-wide radio telescope that relayed footage of the 1969 moon landing. And then a staff member gently explains that the reason for the telescope’s remote location is to minimise electrical radio wave interference, so, obviously, onsite chargers aren’t an option.

Boutique beds

Long gone are the days when heading into regional NSW meant lowering your expectations regarding accommodation and food. Today, the region is littered with top-notch stays and award-winning eateries.

We spend our first night at Essington Park, a historic estate near Oberon owned by chef and entrepreneur Simmone Logue and her equally talented sister, artist Joanna Logue. Available for exclusive hire to groups of up to 10, it offers luxurious digs in a renovated shearer’s shed, plus two communal spaces (both with high-end kitchens), a fire-pit and a veggie garden. It’s a gorgeous rural retreat that guests can enjoy through a creative workshop, such as cooking, painting and weaving, or just as a relaxing country escape. The good news for Tesla drivers is that there’s a dedicated charger onsite.

Lake Oberon and Essington Park.

In Bathurst, the team behind the award-winning Wilga Station has worked its renovation magic on a three-storey, 19th-century wool store in the city’s heritage precinct. Opened in September 2022, The Wool Store contains five stylish self-contained apartments, including a genuinely stunning four-bedroom New York loft-style penthouse. It, too, will soon have its own charger.

While both of these are clearly premium options, there are more affordable gems too. In Parkes, we stay at Joyce House, one of four self-contained properties offered by family-owned Kirsten Accommodation. It’s a clean, modern, well-equipped bolthole that’s walking distance from town.

Wine and dine

Orange has long been praised for its cool-climate wines, but far from resting on its laurels, the region continues to attract innovative operators with fresh ideas.

At See Saw Wine’s new cellar door, they offer a seasonal food pairing, matching three of their organic whites with an indulgent serving of stracciatella cheese and grilled peach, followed by three reds with a delicious braised duck ravioli and garlic cream.

Another newcomer is Macquariedale Organic Wines, run by husband-and-wife team Ross and Derice McDonald, who spent 30 years honing their craft in the Hunter Valley before moving to Orange in 2021. They’re already making an excellent riesling, pinot gris and rose using grapes from a nearby 850-metre-high vineyard, but will soon start producing pinot noir from their own 1100-metre-high vineyard, making them one of Australia’s highest wineries.

Around the table at Macquariedale Organic Wines.

On the culinary front, the region is blessed with numerous gourmet fine diners, but there are excellent rustic options too. After their restaurant burnt down twice in two years, indomitable duo Cathy and Vittorio Murda reopened Cafe Aglio e Olio in the former Parkes Hotel, offering fabulous home-cooked Italian food. The squid ink seafood risotto is one of the best I’ve ever tasted.

Country sceptics

On our last night, we head to Rockley, 35 kilometres south of Bathurst, where the locals on the deck of The Rockley Pub give us a rousing welcome when we pull up outside, carefully squeezing the shiny white Tesla between two muscular, mud-splattered utes. Hatted chef Matt Moran may have bought the pub in 2021, refreshing the rooms and introducing an upscale bistro menu, but it’s still a much-loved local watering hole. One ZZ Top-resembling regular tells me with trademark country candour that “we f--ing hate electric cars around here”.

The Rockley Pub – slow on the EV uptake.Credit: Rob McFarland

Clearly, Elon has his work cut out in Rockley, but it’s hard to argue with the facts. Aside from the initial rental hiccup, this 1100-kilometre, week-long trip has been a breeze. Regional NSW has an ever-growing network of chargers that are easy to find, intuitive to use and, in many cases, free. In a comparable petrol engine SUV, this trip would have cost about $180 in fuel. In the EV, it was $36.34.

The writer was a guest of Avis and the Central NSW Joint Organisation. See visitcentralnsw.com.au

THE DETAILS

HIRE
Avis offers the Tesla Model Y in selected locations across Australia. Rates vary but are similar to an equivalent petrol SUV. See avis.com.au