Central NSW: The best new regional boutique accommodations and dining you need to try

Nashdale Lane features a cellar door and Instagrammable glamping accommodation.

There used to be an unspoken agreement when travelling in regional NSW. In exchange for the wide-open spaces, soul-cleansing vistas and heartfelt hospitality, city dwellers would need to recalibrate their expectations regarding accommodation and dining. Hotels would be functional rather than fancy and restaurants reliable rather than revolutionary. At least, that used to be the case.

Even before the pandemic, regional hubs like Orange and Bathurst had been quietly upping their game. Then COVID came along and droves of talented city slickers relocated to the bush. As a result, you'll now find high-end boutique accommodation and fine-dining restaurants throughout Central NSW. But are they any good? On a gruelling five-day itinerary, I selflessly volunteered to find out.

Grab a sweet treat for the road at Racine Bakery in Orange.Credit: James Horan/Destination NSW

HIGH-ELEVATION COOL

"Orange is the Byron of the bush," claims winemaker Nick Segger as we sample a selection of his cool-climate drops in Nashdale Lane's rustic cellar door (nashdalelane.com). Nick and his wife Tanya were instrumental in putting Orange on the Instagram map when they opened one of the first vineyard glamping experiences in 2018. I'm staying in "Rustig", one of the property's two high-spec Dutch glamping tents, both of which feature fairy-lit four-poster beds, modern ensuite bathrooms and terraces with sweeping vineyard views.

If Nashdale Lane raised the bar for regional accommodation, Lolli Redini did the same for regional dining (lolliredini.com.au). Since 2001, it's collected an impressive 17 chef's hats and continues to serve an innovative menu using local, seasonal produce. As a result, it books out weeks in advance. Enter Birdie Noshery (birdienosherydrinkingest.com), a stylish new venue from the same team with a more relaxed vibe. Pop in for brunch, a cheeky afternoon cocktail (I can recommend the Pink Hummingbird) or a table-straining array of tapas (don't miss the chorizo croquettes).

Poached eggs and ham at Long Arm Farm, Oberon.Credit: Dallas Kilponen

Giving Lolli Redini a run for its money in the fine-dining stakes is Charred Kitchen & Bar (charred.com.au), a genre-straddling eatery incongruously located next to a Pizza Hut. Chef Liam O'Brien uses Asian cooking techniques to showcase the region's best seasonal produce (think charred angus steak with palm sugar and coriander) while sommelier David Collins curates a multi-award-winning 95-page wine tome ("list" doesn't do it justice).

Need more proof? Check out upmarket concept store The Sonic (thesonic.myshopify.com), the recently renovated Orange Regional Gallery (orange.nsw.gov.au) or the sublime pastries at Racine Bakery (racinerestaurant.com.au).

Orange FOOD Week is on from April 1-10. See orangefoodweek.com.au and orange360.com.au

Vibrant summer colours on display at Mayfield Garden in Oberon.Credit: Audrey Lee

FINE FOOD AND BUSH ART

Former Rockpool chef Brendan Sheldrick and his partner Leanne Crofts originally relocated to Forbes to breed game birds for restaurants. And then COVID hit. So they pirouetted to offering pre-prepared meals using local produce from an old butcher's shop.

"It's so not what we planned to do," says Leanne, "but I love the interaction with locals and producers."

Now people swarm from all over the region to stock up on everything from sashimi to salads to handmade wontons. When I arrive at Sheldricks Fine Food (sheldricks.com.au) just after 2pm, the cabinets are already half empty, so I snag a sweet potato with chilli con carne for dinner and head for tonight's digs, award-winning eco-retreat Girragirra (girragirra.com).

Located on a 20-hectare farm on the banks of the Lachlan River, the two-bedroom self-contained property is completely off-grid, relying on solar energy and rainwater. Owners Wendy and Kim Muffet wanted to create something that exemplified "modern sustainability", so you'll also find a fully-equipped kitchen and a lavish egg-shaped bathtub. During their 10-year tenure, they've planted more than 4500 trees and the retreat overlooks a thriving wetland frequented by more than 100 species of birds.

I arrive to find the fridge stocked with tasty treats, including local honey and homemade yoghurt (the pair also run workshops on fermenting and breadmaking). But the biggest surprise is around the back – a sprawling permaculture food garden and an open invitation to pick whatever I want. I return with armfuls of fresh asparagus, lettuce, tomatoes and mulberries and set about cooking up a storm. (OK, I heat up the chilli.)

Among Forbes' many other charms are Varanus, an imposing six-metre-high steel goanna that's part of the 100-kilometre-long Sculpture Down the Lachlan trail (somewheredownthelachlan.com), the exquisitely manicured Victoria Park and a self-guided walking trail of the town's colonial architecture. In fact, all that's missing is a notable destination restaurant. Surely, it can only be a matter of time.

HISTORICAL HIPSTER

As Australia's oldest inland settlement, Bathurst could easily have relied on its gold rush-era heritage to attract tourists. And while history buffs will find plenty of impressive landmarks, such as the grand Bathurst Courthouse and the baronial Abercrombie House, the city also has trendy cafes, innovative eateries and several standout attractions.

A perfect example of this fusion of historical grandeur and modern sophistication is Bishop's Court Estate (bishopscourtestate.com.au). Once the home of the city's first Anglican bishop, the two-storey brick mansion has been transformed by interior designer Christine Le Fevre into a sumptuous six-suite retreat. Le Fevre is the consummate host, serving afternoon tea in the library and hosting pre-dinner champagne and canapes. She can also organise special interest stays, such as private tours of local gardens or lavish dinners with a winemaker in the property's 1908 former chapel. As one recent visitor put it, "You arrive as a guest and leave as a friend."

Bathurst's dining scene is excitingly varied, with everything from American comfort food at Dogwood, BX (dogwoodbx.com.au) to high-end modern Australian at 9inety 2wo. A welcome recent addition is Vine & Tap, a relaxed Italian eatery that serves delicious tapas-style snacks (order the wild mushroom arancini) in an intimate leafy courtyard (vineandtap.com.au).

As a Sydneysider surrounded by world-class galleries and museums, I have a shameful habit of skipping their regional counterparts. In Bathurst, that's a mistake. Bathurst Regional Art Gallery (bathurstart.com.au) has an $8.5 million collection by some of Australia's best-known artists. Bathurst Rail Museum is home to the country's largest public model railway and the Australian Fossil and Mineral Museum contains a dazzling display of rare minerals (museumsbathurst.com.au). Furthermore, they are all excellent.

MOUNTAIN HIGH, VALLEY LOW

My final stop on this Central NSW sojourn is Oberon, elevated 1100 metres on the western fringe of the Blue Mountains. With a population of around 3300, it's a dot on the map compared to Orange and Bathurst, but still there are unexpected gems. Exhibit A: The Long Arm Farm Cafe, which serves hearty homemade meals using local, free-range pork and sells a tempting selection of jams, relishes and pickles.

A 10-minute drive north is Lowes Mount Truffiere, a family-run truffle farm with sweeping views over the Tarana Valley (lowesmounttruffles.wordpress.com). Visit during truffle hunting season (June to August) and you can join excitable black labrador Fergus for a scavenge among the farm's truffle-bearing oak trees. Sadly, you can no longer stay in the property's stylish self-contained residence, but nearby Hickory Moon (hickorymoon.com.au) provides a similar experience with equally spellbinding vistas and stylish cast-iron bathtubs.

From here, you're ideally placed to explore the region's many attractions, which include the southern hemisphere's largest cool climate garden (Mayfield Garden), plus the world's oldest known cave system (Jenolan Caves). Alternatively, you could crack open a bottle of cool-climate shiraz from nearby Renzaglia Wines, smother a slice of sourdough with fragrant truffle butter and watch the sun set over the spectacular Tarana Valley. No prizes for guessing which option I choose.

FIVE MORE CENTRAL NSW TOWNS TO EXPLORE

COWRA

Learn about Australia's largest POW breakout at the Prisoner of War Campsite, then admire the spirit of reconciliation at the Japanese Garden and Cultural Centre. See visitcowra.com.au

GRENFELL

Visit the birthplace of much-loved Australian poet, Henry Lawson, and explore the region's gold-mining history at O'Brien's Hill. Don't miss the gorgeous heritage architecture on the town's main street. See grenfell.org.au

CARCOAR

Admire the restored Georgian and Victorian architecture in this tiny one-street town, which, despite its diminutive size, is home to a high-end homeware store and an award-winning Italian eatery, Antica Australis. See carcoar.com.au

PARKES

Visit the radio telescope that helped broadcast the moon landing (and featured in the hit movie The Dish) and learn more about the "father of Australian federation" at the Henry Parkes Centre. Elvis fan? Don't miss the town's exuberant annual five-day festival in January (moved to April for 2022). See visitparkes.com.au

CANOWINDRA

Marvel at 360-million-year-old fossils at the Ages of Fishes Museum, then take a stroll along the town's heritage-listed "bendy street". Finish at Finns Store, where you'll find fashion, art and great coffee in a building dating from the late-1800s. See canowindra.com.au

Rob McFarland was a guest of Central NSW Joint Organisation (visitcentralnsw.com.au).