Best short-haul holiday destinations: Noumea, New Caledonia

Noumea, New Caledonia

Aerial view of Le Meridien Resort & Spa in Noumea.

The bottom line Two hours and 50 minutes from Sydney (1970 km); the minimum flight time from Melbourne, via Sydney, is four hours (2685 km) with a one-hour time difference (AEST) between Sydney and Melbourne.

Why go It’s a whole other world yet incredibly close to ours, so close – closer than Cairns is from Sydney – but, seemingly so far from our minds. Noumea offers a genuine taste of France, sans the jet lag, right on our Antipodean doorstep and while, not quite the bargain of other South Pacific climes, it’s nonetheless a mystery why it isn’t more popular with Australian travellers.

Duration of stay Four to five days.

See + do Noumea is home to one of the great architectural statements, along, of course, with the Sydney Opera House, of the South Pacific. The capital’s Tjibaou Cultural Centre (centretjibaou.nc), designed by the legendary Italian architect Renzo Piano, is named in honour of the Indigenous Kanak independence leader, Jean-Marie Tjibaou. Distinguished by 10 towering ribbed steel and timber structures inspired by traditional Kanak huts, the centre is set within a bayside forest setting a short drive from the diminutive city centre. Guests at the Le Meridien Resort (marriott.com) can visit the Cultural Centre for free as part of its brand-wide Unlock Art program. Switch from Indigenous heritage to colonial heritage, as you head back into town to the historic suburb of Faubourg Blanchot. While not much of colonial European Noumea remains, this is one area where you will find charming remnants of it with 60 French colonial timber houses all meticulously maintained, forming the basis of a self-guided tour (au.newcaledonia.travel). Beginning at the landmark Maison Celieres, a beautifully-restored mansion right in the heart of Faubourg Blanchot, the tour can be done by car, bike or on foot.

Noumea’s Tjibaou Cultural Centre designed by architect Renzo Piano to celebrate the indigenous culture of New Caledonia.Credit: Elissalde Arnaud

Eat + Drink Michelin may not have found its way from France to New Caledonia quite yet, but Noumea represents a microcosm of French culinary delights in a far-flung tropical setting. For a dash of Gallic culinary flair and imagination, don’t forget to book dinner at Marmite et Tire-Bouchon (marmiteettirebouchon.nc), a contemporary French bistro almost alone worth the flight across the Pacific. For a casual lunch, head to La Guinguette, run by a team hailing from Marseilles and tucked away in Noumea’s so-called Latin Quarter, not far from the Port Moselle markets. Choose from a blackboard lunch menu of Mediterranean-influenced dishes including locally-caught seafood such as tuna. For a cool drink among Noumea’s cool set, head to the relaxing MV Lounge (au.newcaledonia.travel), a buzzy beach club set in a leafy and sandy nook at the northern end of beautiful Baie des Citrons. For brunch, including excellent Australian-style espresso coffee and brekky favourites, Lemon Bay Cafe is a must. Named after its enviable Baie des Citrons beachside location, it’s run by a New Caledonia and Australian couple. In Noumea you’ll find some of the best patisseries and chocolatiers outside of France. Locals are devoted to Au Peche Mignon (aupechemignon.nc) on Rue Jules Garnier for cakes while for handmade sweet treats, the heavily-stocked Chocolats Morand (chocolatsmorand.nc) in the Latin Quarter of the Noumea city centre is the stuff of a displaced Parisian chocolate connoisseur fantasy.

Noumea’s Moselle Bay with St Joseph Cathedral in the foreground.Credit: iStock

Stay In Noumea the cuisine, and all else, tends to outshine the accommodation. Nadi it is not. However, you’ll be perfectly comfortable at either of the major and well-located beachside digs, namely Le Meridien Resort (marriott.com) and Spa and Chateau Royal Beach Resort & Spa (hotelchateauroyal.nc).

Detour Noumea’s signature day excursion is the 45-minute high-speed boat trip to idyllic Amedee Island (amedeeisland.com). To and from the island, there’s the chance to spot whales while the island itself is crowned by a nearly 60-metre high lighthouse, built entirely from metal and erected in 1865. While on the island, do keep clear of Amedee’s ubiquitous sea kraits, the island’s land and marine-going striped snakes, and they’ll tend to keep away from you.

Essentials Aircalin , New Caledonia’s surprisingly good national boutique airline, operates regular and affordable code-share flights between Sydney and Noumea. The best time to visit Noumea is from September to November though it’s also the busiest time for visitors. Australians need only a valid passport to enter New Caledonia. See aircalin.com; au.newcaledonia.travel