Originally from Cairns, Paul Summers has lived in Ogikubo in Suginami-ku, Tokyo, for the past 20 years, much of that time working for Tourism and Events Queensland. In 1994, he married Osaka native Seiko.
Cherry blossom, Suginami.Credit: iStock
SEE Suginami-ku (Suginami Ward) hardly rates a mention in most travel guidebooks on Tokyo, but it is full of hidden gems for those eschewing the inner-city crowds. One is Otaguro Koen (Otaguro Park), a short walk south from Ogikubo station. This small park was once the home of a famous music critic whose family bequeathed it to the ward in 1981. Entry is free and after stepping through the park’s unassuming gate, the 100-year-old ginkgo trees lining both sides of your path immediately command attention. Otaguro Park is lit up at night in April and November for better appreciation of its maples, and in September bamboo lanterns are also an attraction (a small fee applies).
Paul Summers has lived in Tokyo for 20 years.
DO Tokyoites go gaga every spring in late March or early April when the city’s cherry blossoms burst - and rightly so. One of the best locations for cherry-blossom viewing is along Suginami-ku’s Zenpukuji River (more a creek by Aussie standards) which flows easterly from a spring in Nishi-Ogikubo (West Ogikubo) and has hundreds of cherry trees of varying ages adorning its banks. Even when not in flower, the patchwork of trees and greenery along the river up to Honancho make it a great spot for a cycle or a casual walk without the usual throng.
EAT Ask anyone who lives in Tokyo what is famous about Ogikubo and they will most likely say “ramen”. There are many ramen noodle shops in the vicinity of Ogikubo station with the best being Harukiya. Established in 1949, this ramen shop on the north exit of Ogikubo station has a simple menu where the unique niboshi (dried sardine) flavour of its broth and its daily-made, Chinese-style chuka soba noodles are trademarks. Be prepared to queue on weekends and hone your chopstick skills in advance to tackle the wonton ramen, haruki-ya.co.jp
Akhaama coffee.
DRINK Coffee has replaced alcohol for me lately and I am happy to report that, after a bloody long time, Tokyo finally has some decent coffee shops that fussy Antipodeans might score at least a seven-out of 10, or higher. In my neighbourhood, Woodberry has a great shop, while the only other one worthy of mention in Ogikubo is Cross Point, shop-woodberrycoffee.com Other favourites in Tokyo are Akhaama Coffee in Kagurazaka, BunCoffee in Akasaka and of course Mia Mia in Higashi-Nagasaki west of Ikebukuro, instagram.com/akhaamacoffee.japan/ instagram.com/buncoffee_akasaka/ , mia-mia.tokyo
AVOID As well as eating, talking on the phone or in a loud voice on a train anywhere in Japan is also a no-no. And holding your stuffed backpack in front of you on a crowded train rather than on your back should be reflexive common sense.
THRIVE Although it claims to recycle much of it, Japan uses a lot of plastic, and bottled beverages sold in PET bottles are ubiquitous. Stay hydrated, help save the planet and save yen by downloading the mymizu app to find out where you can refill your own bottle of water for free, mymizu.co
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