A short(ish) flight away, this place is like stepping into a postcard

Just one short flight from Sydney and I’ve arrived in paradise, or more precisely the Cook Islands.

It’s my first time here, and stepping onto the main island of Rarotonga is like stepping into a living postcard of swaying palms, crushed coral beach, kids splashing and snorkelling in crystal-clear lagoons and the scent of frangipani in the breeze.

In a place where locals greet you like an old friend, here’s a newcomers’ guide to embracing island life.

Arriving in Rarotonga feels like stepping into a living postcard.

Family matters

A great base for exploring Rarotonga, Edgewater Resort & Spa Rarotonga is perched on the water’s edge. The vibe is relaxed and welcoming. There are rooms that can accommodate two adults and two kids, and larger villas designed for families needing extra space.

Edgewater Resort & Spa Rarotonga.

At the heart of the resort is a lagoon-facing pool, surrounded by tables, chairs and a few sunbeds – so the adults can chill with a comically huge cocktail while watching their kids. Days here are effortlessly relaxing, and the pool, kids’ club and a rotating schedule of activities make it easy to stay in if that’s your style. When the sun sets, the resort shifts gears, buzzing with energy as the evening entertainment kicks in.

On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the Island Night at Edgewater is a fun-filled event that gets packed out (be sure to book ahead). The evening unfolds with a feast of slow-cooked meats and island dishes (the Rūta with coconut cream, made with taro and coconut leaves, is a standout), along with tropical salads and desserts in every colour and flavour imaginable.

The main event – a cultural dance show including drumming and a local dance troop – has guests swaying in their seats and tapping their feet. Whether you’re embracing the spotlight (like our eldest) or awkwardly dodging the limelight (like my husband), it’s the kind of evening that stays with you long after the final drumbeat fades.

Island Night at Edgewater Resort and Spa.

Immerse yourself

For a different kind of theatrical dive into Cook Islands traditions, the overwater night show at Te Vara Nui Village is a must-do. The Legend of Tongaiti is brought to life with fiery torches, vibrant dancers, and a garden lake complete with a floating stage. Kids, adults and everyone in between will be mesmerised by the spectacle.

The whole island flocks to Punanga Nui Markets on Saturday mornings, where vendors showcase everything from intricately crafted shell necklaces to vibrant tropical smoothies. Try the famous ika mata (marinated raw fish in coconut cream), pick up a bold tie-dye shirt, and soak up the lively, music-filled vibe.

For a more food-focused scene, the Muri Night Markets on Thursday nights are the perfect spot to pull up a seat, grab a grilled barramundi, and savour the laid-back island atmosphere.

Land, lagoon action

Rarotonga’s lagoons are its crowning glory, inviting you to cruise, swim, snorkel, or simply splash around to soak up their incredible beauty, and the Koka Lagoon Cruise offers an unforgettable adventure on the water. Gliding over impossibly clear waters, snorkelling alongside vibrant schools of parrotfish, and laughing as the lively crew bursts into song or delivers their signature cheeky jokes is a truly memorable way to spend a morning. Lunch is served on a sandy islet, followed by more music, dancing and a few laugh-out-loud moments you’ll be sharing stories about for days.

Lagoon cruising.

For a truly unique experience – and quite possibly something you’ve never tried before – embark on a nighttime stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking tour. As the sun sets, LED lights beneath your board illuminate the lagoon, casting a mesmerising glow of greens and blues across the water. The concept, brought to life by owner Ina Nooroa, has quickly become a favourite for visitors. Guided by the light of the stars, and accompanied by Rusta and Kujo – the friendly dogs who playfully act as the group’s “herders” – you’ll paddle through the tranquil waters while your guides share captivating local legends. The grand finale? A dazzling fire show where you even get the chance to twirl a flaming baton yourself.

If you prefer solid ground, head inland for a different perspective. Storytellers Eco Cycle and Walking Tours offers a variety of bike and walking tours, exploring the main parts of Rarotonga and the island’s quieter back roads. On the Island Heritage cycling tour, you’ll learn about the island’s rich flora, sample tropical fruits straight from the trees, and hear fascinating stories about historical figures, including the legendary chief Tereora and the influential missionary William Gill.

Rinse, repeat

Night stand-up paddleboarding with KiteSUP.

As much as there is to do on Rarotonga, the island’s magic lies in its ability to help you slow down. Spend a morning snorkelling face down in the lagoon, and you might well see colourful schools of fish darting in and around coral and graceful sea turtles gliding by. You can then indulge in a long lunch at one of the island’s beachfront cafes or savour the best falafel you’ll ever taste at the Falafel Shack, a food truck with tables on the sand and space to unwind with your family.

Evenings are for watching the sun dip below the horizon with cocktail in hand and, from July to October, you are likely to see whales breaching just beyond the lagoon. The water is always warm, the sand always soft, and the sense of calm – well, that feels endless.

For families, the Cook Islands strike a rare balance between exploration and relaxation. Whether it’s snorkelling with the kids in the gentle lagoons, feasting on tropical delights at the local markets, or simply laughing together as you bike along the coastal roads, the island offers something for every age and energy level.

Like clockwork

Getting around Rarotonga is as laid-back as the island itself. The clockwise and anticlockwise buses are reliable (if delightfully unhurried), or you can rent a scooter or car to zip between beaches and cafes. Packing is equally simple: light clothing, sunscreen, and reef shoes so you can explore the lagoons without cutting yourself on rocks and shells.

Families and couples

For those visiting for the first time, Rarotonga is the kind of destination that lingers in your memory long after you’ve left, pulling you back for more. Repeat visitors are common, and everyone finds their rhythm here. Families are well catered for, but there’s also plenty for couples – from adults-only resorts such as Club Raro Resort to fine dining spots like Anchorage.

The details

DO
A half-day Koka Lagoon Cruises boat tour starts from $NZ99 ($90) for adults and $NZ49 ($45) for kids aged six to 11, with under-fives free. It includes a glass-bottom boat cruise, ukulele tunes, snorkelling, a barbecue lunch, and a cultural show. See kokalagooncruises.com

The Fire on Water Night Paddle Tour with KiteSUP, from $NZ89, ends with a fiery show on a private island. See kitesup.co

For $NZ119 (adults) or $NZ59 (kids under five), Storytellers Eco Cycle and Walking Tours Explore Bicycle Tour is a half-day exploration in the saddle, followed by lunch. See storytellers.co.ck.

FLY
Jetstar operates the only direct flights between Australia and the Cook Islands, with four weekly services from Sydney to Rarotonga, increasing to five during the May to October 2025 peak season. Connect via domestic services from Melbourne. See jetstar.com

STAY
A garden superior room at the Edgewater Resort & Spa Rarotonga costs from NZD$318 per room per night (based on two sharing) and includes tropical breakfast daily as well as use of tennis court, snorkelling gear, daily activities and free entry to the Coconuts Kids Club (age four to 12). See edgewater.co.ck

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The writer travelled as a guest of Cook Islands Tourism, Jetstar, and Edgewater Resort & Spa Rarotonga.