The locals know the Saturday drill: arrive early and get the pick of the best fish on the menu. There are about eight freshly caught varieties to choose from, as well as the specials and burgers, pastas, curries and steaks. A swordfish special on a bed of apple, parsnip and coconut puree, with a pile of fennel, ruby red grapefruit and crisp capers on top is the best fish meal my partner has ever eaten - he's so excited he's tweeting at the table. Eye fillet is topped with rosemary salt and truffle oil and comes with mash, green beans, mushrooms and leeks. Succulent to the last scrape.