The dining highlight in this Art Deco country hub is this quaint shopfront restaurant, all golden interior and rustic wood floors, across from the 1930s-vintage Roxy Theatre. Start with the hot-and-crusty ciabatta - pricey at $12, but a remarkable piece of fresh-baked bliss. Warm and thoughtful floor staff keep the locals coming back, as does such meat-focused French fare as crisped duck leg with soft-roasted prunes and a rich jus, paired with a rendered slab of pork belly. It's all pretty classic stuff, with the occasional twist, such as a lamb shank stuffed with baby capers for a lovely hit of salt and acidity. Coconut, almond and lemon cake combines with raspberry, pear and smooth cinnamon ice-cream. Do as the locals do and BYO, as a floor staff of one attentively refills glasses and keeps whites cool in plastic wine chillers. You'll be hard-pressed to find a better meal in this slice of the Riverina, so best book ahead, lest the locals beat you to a table.