What
Eggplants, sometimes referred to by their French name aubergine, are available in all shapes and sizes. The most common are the large black variety, and the small, slender purple Japanese or baby eggplant. Less common but still amazing is the small, white, slightly lavender-tinged eggplant. The texture of eggplant is its prized asset, giving a glorious and unique velvet richness to dishes that seems to be unrivalled.

Choose
Firm, shiny eggplants that feel particularly heavy for their size are the ones you need to hunt down. Avoid those that have shrivelled skin, bruising, brown spots, soft spots and blemishes.

Store
I like to use eggplants within two days of purchase to prevent deterioration, although they can be kept for up to a week in a fridge. If you are storing them for a few days, handle with care as they can bruise quite easily.

Try
Eggplants are very versatile and wonderful in slow-cooked stews and curries, as well as deep-fried dishes and tempura. To make a good eggplant dip similar to aubergine caviar or baba ganoush, simply cut an eggplant in half and roast until soft, scoop out the flesh and mash with olive oil and garlic. A pinch of ground cumin and tahini paste can also be added, to be served with grilled pieces of flatbread.

BARBECUE EGGPLANT AND GRILLED LAMB WITH LEBNEH AND ZA'ATAR
Lebneh is Greek yoghurt, soft and smooth. Za'atar (which you can buy ready-made) is a fine Middle Eastern spice based on sesame seeds, dried herbs and sumac. Serve with charred pieces of warm flatbread.

2 eggplants, thickly sliced

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

6 fillets of lamb

200g lebneh

1 cup mint leaves, torn

For the za'atar

1 tsp dried oregano

1 tsp dried thyme

1 tsp sumac

1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

1/2 tsp salt flakes

Serves 4

Preheat barbecue or stove-top grill plate.

To make za'atar, place all ingredients in a mortar and grind to a rustic powder with the pestle.

Rub eggplants with olive oil and a pinch of za'atar, place on hot barbecue for about 4 minutes each side until evenly charred, soft and juicy. At the same time, rub lamb fillets with oil and season with za'atar, and cook for 6-8 minutes. Char all over evenly; by then they should be nice and pink in the middle. Allow to rest on side for 3-4 minutes, then slice into pieces.

Serve hot with grilled eggplants, dollops of lebneh, a good sprinkle of za'atar and torn pieces of mint. This dish is also good served with fresh green chilli and herby couscous.

CRAB AND MISO-BAKED EGGPLANT

Mirin is a Japanese rice wine similar to sake but with a richer, buttery flavour and texture. For this recipe I use Shiro Miso Soybean paste, available in 500g packets at supermarkets.

1 large (400g) eggplant

1 tsp salt flakes

¼ cup olive oil

200g crab meat (blue swimmer or spanner crab is best)

1 1/2 tbsp white miso

1 tbsp mirin

1 tsp cooking sake

Serves 2 large portions or 4 as a centre dish to share

Preheat oven to 200°C.

Cut eggplant in half lengthwise, and make fine incisions into flesh in a criss-cross fashion. Rub salt thoroughly into grooves on cut side of eggplant.

Heat a large fry pan, add half the oil, then eggplants cut-side down. Cook for 3 minutes until evenly coloured golden brown. Add extra oil as pan dries. Turn over to skin side and cook for 2 more minutes.

Meanwhile, mix together crab, miso, mirin and sake to make a smooth paste.

Spread crab mix over flesh side of eggplant halves and place skin-side down in oven.

Bake for 10-12 minutes until eggplants are soft and juicy and miso paste has glazed golden brown.

Serve hot as is or scoop out eggplant flesh and crab, mix with fork and serve back in eggplant cavity. Serve with snipped herbs or cress salad.