The owners of D&K Live Seafood market in Footscray have made the leap into restaurants, opening Muli, an elegant “sea to plate” venue that draws on the deep expertise the Tran family has developed in procuring and selling top-shelf seafood.

“D&K was like an Everest we conquered, so why not climb a new mountain?” says Van Tran.

Van, who runs both ventures with husband David and son David, acknowledges the transition from retail to restaurant has been “freaking hard”. But it’s also been grounds for fearless creativity.

Muli’s menu is an eclectic mix of reimagined traditional Asian recipes and plays on raw bar offerings.

Raw female blue swimmer crab is marinated for four days in gochujang (chilli paste) and soy sauce, a rare Melbourne sighting of the Korean dish yangnyeom gejang. Marron, fresh from the tank, is grilled and slathered with truffle sauce. Tartare of crab or salmon is presented in a neat disc over rice, while snacks include crab dumplings and lobster rolls.

Muli’s experimental edge is most evident in its desserts. Uni is served in both ice-cream and macaron form, while another ice-cream is made from oyster and topped with lemon zest. These dishes are designed to encourage a broadened appreciation for seafood, according to Van.

The Trans are keen to share their knowledge through Muli’s Shuckmaster Experience, a class where guests are taught to open 12 different types of oysters, uni and more, learning about the different varieties along the way. After earning their ‘shucking licence’, pupils then enjoy half a dozen bivalves paired with sparkling wine from Mudgee’s Craigmoor.

While Van compares the shift from Footscray to Carlton to moving countries, the neighbourhood’s saturated dining scene has sparked a drive to stand out.

“Our produce is the star at Muli,” says Van. “We like to go outside the box with weird and wonderful seafood.”

Future ideas include introducing a home-style menu honouring the family’s Vietnamese-Chinese heritage through dishes such as caramelised Murray cod, pork belly and soups.

Open Wed 6pm-10pm, Thurs-Sun 12pm-3pm & 6pm-9.30pm

184A Rathdowne Street, Carlton, 0425 781 838, muli.au