Despite having a monopoly on the suburb, this Sydney gem, with a sensitive, practical mix of heritage and the new, keeps its prices reasonable. It's a Monday night and there's an instant sense of community, kids and grandparents abound (it's $15 300-gram steak and chips night). Upstairs, with its slightly better stunning harbour and cityscape views, appears to be the oldies' escape. Succulent steaks are just one speciality, and chef Glenn Tabudlo has maintained the rage set by predecessor Lee Kwiez. As we went to press came news that Simon Mackay, formerly of The Welcome, would be heading up the kitchen team.