Scott Pickett says one of his earliest memories is of coming to Queen Victoria Market for a bratwurst with his dad when he was four. "Now I bring my own kids for shopping and a sausage," he says. "It's a family tradition, like it is for many Melbourne families."

The chef-owner of Northcote's Estelle Bistro and Estelle by Scott Pickett is making his own contribution to Vic Market tradition with Pickett's Deli & Rotisserie, which opened on September 29.

The centrepiece is an upright rotisserie, where Pickett and crew roast free-range chickens from suppliers Bannockburn and Milawa.

"From there I wanted it to feel like a New York Deli with a splash of Paris," Pickett says. Mission accomplished: interior designers Hirsch Bedner Associates have fitted out the corner shop with dark timber produce shelves, a marble charcuterie counter and a long communal table.

House-smoked bacon with a "secret" dry rub makes a tasty bacon and brown sauce breakfast roll, while mains for lunch and evenings might be crumbed lamb's brains with sauce diable or gnocchi with prawn bolognese.

Bar snacks of oysters, pickles and charcuterie support a list of craft drinks and local and Mediterranean wines by the glass, bottle or to take home. You can also take away one of those roast chickens with roasted confit vegies for $34.

"I want this to be my fun, accessible drop-in place," says Pickett. "Breakfast, lunch, dinner, wine bar – it moves throughout the day."

Open daily 7am-11pm from Melbourne Cup week (November 1); trading on market days (Tue, Thu-Sun) and Thu-Sat evenings until then.

Corner Therry and Elizabeth Streets, Melbourne