Last summer, Lisa Valmorbida set up a gelato pop-up in Faraday Street, Carlton. Pidapipo opened on Friday in permanent digs in Lygon Street. "We wanted to see how it went first," says Valmorbida, whose family owns food and wine hub King & Godfree on the corner of Lygon and Faraday streets.

The former fashion store has been gutted and rebuilt, with design by Rabindra Naidoo. "We wanted a classic 1950s feel paying homage to [imminent Italian architect] Carlo Scarpa," says Valmorbida of the room, where brass light fittings, steel trimmings, a long marble counter and worn concrete give a timeless feel.

The gelati flavours that had crowds queuing last summer – pistachio, fior di latte, hazelnut, chocolate – are back, along with changing seasonal selections. Pidapipo is opening with Christmas flavours including eggnog and Christmas pudding and Valmorbida plans to collaborate with others on flavours. The first one is a flavour called "Coke float" with Rafael Rashid of Taco Truck. There's also a Valrhona chocolate fountain for filling cones to order and brioche buns to be filled with gelati of the customer's choice.

It's open daily from noon to 11pm.

Pidapipo, 299 Lygon Street, Carlton, 9347 4596, pidapipo.com.au