You'd be a brave man to open yet another restaurant in Collingwood right now. Or, four brave men to be exact: Wide Open Road and Heartattack and Vine proprietors Hootan Heydari​ and Jono Hill have teamed up with long-time employee Mark Jacobson and head chef Daniel Dobra to open a slick cafe-restaurant hybrid on Johnston Street on Monday.

They've taken over the old Heart of Europe site transforming a once-dingy space into a light-filled bar with the help of architect Nicky Adams: mid-century modern-style booths in rich red upholstery, LA diner-style stools and low-fuss hanging fluorescents.

After stints at the Royal Mail, Brutale and most recently the Beaufort, Dobra's menu is built around all-day dining, "a restaurant that does breakfast," he says, with a carnivorous lean.

In the a.m. it's fried chicken and waffles or pancakes stuffed with macaroni and cheese; as night falls he brings out the big guns – a pork "schnitty", really a slow-roast rump par-crumbed in panko and crackling, is sure to be a drawcard, and don't get us started on the the deep-fried apple pie.

On the coffee front, expect Wide Open Road beans (naturally); Jacobson has created a special Bedford Street blend in honour of the new venue.

Looking for something stronger? There are three beers on tap, martinis and manhattans and a concise, mainly local, wine list.

Open Mon-Fri 7am-11pm; Sat-Sun 8am-11pm.

11-13 Johnston Street, Collingwood