Windsor's loss is the Mornington Peninsula's gain. Highline at the Railway Hotel, Windsor's hatted farm-to-table fine diner, toasted its last marshmallow over a smouldering pine cone in March.

But its closure hasn't busted up its team. Chef Simon Tarlington has taken the head chef role at hatted winery restaurant Paringa Estate in Red Hill, and he's brought Highline's sommelier, Eric Wagnon (who has also poured at the late Marque and Paper Daisy), and a number of chefs with him.

Tarlington has introduced a four- or six-course degustation all bracketed by the playful snacks he championed at Highline (a la carte is still available at lunch). To start there might be lard-brushed Vegemite scrolls, a ham and egg mousse served in the egg shell, and lamb bacon-wrapped prunes soaked in Paringa pinot for a '70s cocktail party throwback.

As with Highline, which had its own farm, Tarlington is going hyper-local with his produce, from Western Plains pork to Mount Martha mussels.

Wagnon, meanwhile, has expanded the cellar with a fleet of new Burgundies and a greater selection of drops from Victorian wineries, and specifically Mornington. These are available, along with Paringa's own wines, in two new tiered wine matchings. Restaurant manager Sarah Page remains in charge of the team.

The Paringa change has set off a domino-like cascade. Lindenderry Estate has gained Paringa's former head chef, Adam Becket, whose autumn menu has now launched. This has freed up the hotel group's executive chef, David Green (recruited from the Lake House in Daylesford last year) to reinvent the restaurant at Werribee Mansion and Spa.