Wow. Clocks scrubs up all right. The Flinders Street Station venue you mostly know for its pokies and late night licence has reopened after a nine-month renovation that saw Green Light Diner installed, and will operate under the steerage of Darran Smith (ex-Roving Marrow) and Steve Schreuder.

It's still owned by the Doxa Community Club and the pokies are still clanging away out the back, but the transformation is remarkable.

Studio Nine Architects has worked well with the station's natural bone structure. In the former TAB room you'll now find ample marble, glistening tiles, dark woods, soft booths and bronze trim.

The front room has a central coffee bar open to the street where by day they're slinging breakfast sandwiches stuffed with scrambled egg, bacon, cheese and jalapeno mayo in an homage to Los Angeles' Eggslut, and offering up salt beef bagels a la London's Brick Lane until 1am at weekends. Breakfast, including pancake stacks and muesli, runs all day. From 10am there are pubby classics: schnitzels, steaks, loaded fries and grain salads.

In six months, the basement will become a late night whisky bar. With Arbory Afloat kicking on through April and the renovation of Transport across the way, it sucks far less to miss your train.

Open Mon-Thu 7am-9pm, Fri 7am-1am, Sat 8am-1am, Sun 8am-9pm.

Shop 17, The Concourse, Flinders Street Station, Melbourne.