The Angkor Ticket office on the outskirts of Siem Reap, Cambodia’s second-largest city, is designed to handle crowds with plenty of space for queues. Last Saturday, however, there was no waiting.

Angkor Wat visitor numbers are still well down on what they were pre-pandemic. In the year to December 8, just over 247,000 foreign tourists visited the temple complex. In 2019, there were 2.2 million international visitors and in 2018, when the temples were in danger of being loved too much, 2.6 million people came.