The spectre of Li Cunxin appears in the restaurant long before the man himself does. Staff are on alert, a table has been selected and a welcoming party delegated the task of receiving him.
In Brisbane, it seems, Mao's Last Dancer is as close to royalty as it gets.
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Bryce Corbett co-writes The Australian Financial Review's Rear Window column. He is a journalist with more than 20 years' experience. He lives in Brisbane and Sydney. Connect with Bryce on Twitter. Email Bryce at bryce.corbett@fairfaxmedia.com.au