It’s a cold, brilliant night as the moon’s reflection beams off the still water of the lake. All seems quiet in the dormitory suburbs of the nation’s capital – unless you happen to chance upon one of those late-night bars frequented by ministers, MPs, politicians’ staff, senior bureaucrats and journalists.

In a bar near Parliament, a minister eyeballs a recently appointed female staff member on another Cabinet minister’s staff. A watchful journalist makes note. The minister’s chief of staff nurses a scotch and a concerned look in the corner. Three young journalists at the other end of the bar swap boasts about "dumps" – deliberately leaked reports. Meanwhile, the music gets louder, the crowd swells and the drinking is frenetic.