It was Indiana Jones who introduced me to the mysteries of Jordan. The Last Crusade’s finale, set amid the rose-hued, intricately carved sandstone entrance to the lost city of Petra, lured legions of armchair adventurers to explore what was then a barely known region. In 1993, four years after the blockbuster came out, my husband and I – like lemmings with backpacks – joined the early throng.

Thirty years later, we return to Petra. It is still a magical place, despite the exponential growth in visitors. The upside is there’s also been an explosion in accommodation options, including ultra-luxe stays where the staff speak fluent English and brandish refreshing limonanas (lemon mint drinks).