“I’ve been planting imaginary vineyards in my head my whole adult life,” says Luke Lambert, looking out over 1.6 hectares of baby nebbiolo vines. “Now I’ve finally got a real one, after 20 years.”

Lambert is standing on the top of a hill in the Yea Valley near Murrindindi, just to the north of the Yarra Valley. He’s showing me the property he and his partner Rosalind Hall bought in 2017; the northeast-facing slope they cleared of blackberry and scrub; the slope on which they’ve planted their nebbiolo vines, and the beginnings of an olive grove that will supply them with oil.