Chefs love playing around with classic dishes. Sometimes, the “tweak” or the “twist” – as it’s called in food-writing parlance – falls flat, and we’re left wishing they’d left well enough alone. Does anyone really need mushrooms added to a spaghetti carbonara? It takes talent, skill and a certain sensitivity to contemporary tastes to know how to update a classic without botching it. And that’s why the examples below make the cut.
