Peter Gilmore loves his peas. But it wasn’t until he started growing them himself that he became obsessed. “It was when I actually saw them grow from a little seed into this incredible vine, with its tendrils, leaves and pods,” says the executive chef of Quay, Sydney’s most luxurious harbourside diner. “It changed everything for me”.

There is a dedicated pea course on the new, post-lockdown tasting menu at Quay. The peas are podded, blanched and topped with a velvety green emulsion flavoured with licorice, citrusy sudachi, kombu seaweed and parsley. If it were possible to taste colour, this is what “pea green” would taste like: intense, sweet and herbal.