Andreas Papadakis is talking about his creative process as a chef at Melbourne’s cosy Tipo 00. “I like to use one particular ingredient to extract a lot of flavour, in a unique way,” he says. As to how he reaches that particular ingredient, “it just clicks, in my head”, he says.

That explains the bitter cocoa powder in hand-made pasta tossed with buttery wild mushrooms, and why smoked eel replaces tuna in Italy’s classic vitello tonnato.