Pizzateca brings a slice of Naples to the city at Madre
He’s worked at Adelaide’s best pizza restaurants and has shared his knowledge to help open pizzerias interstate. Now, Ettore Bertonati has opened the doors to his own traditional pizza restaurant, Madre.
A giant mound of dough rests on the counter; flames flickering in the blue-tiled Stefano Ferrara wood oven heating up behind it.
“This will probably make 120,” says Ettore Bertonati, Adelaide’s resident Neapolitan pizza expert and owner of new Gilbert St restaurant, Madre.
He’s referring to the number of pizzas the dough will make, of course, as he effortlessly rolls perfectly smooth spheres of the stuff for further proving. This batch is for service in two days’ time.
Pizza for tonight’s service will be made with dough made two days ago.
A long proving time is one of the secrets to real Neapolitan pizza; the other is the recipe of the dough itself. Ettore uses his “mother dough” starter, three types of flour (including a little whole grain, “for flavour”) and sea water, imported from Italy.
“It’s about finding the right balance between rising and fermentation,” Ettore says.
Madre is a dream come true for the Neapolitan-born pizzaiolo, who spends the rest of his dough-tossing time at McLaren Vale’s Pizzateca, which supports the city venture.
Doors are now open for dinner at Madre (Italian for “mother”) Tuesday to Saturday.
Architect Chris Rowlands’ RAD-Studio is behind the fresh-look interior, defined by pastel pink panelling (and a pink coffee machine), pendant lights and navy blue tables and chairs. Southern Italians will notice the references to board game Tombola, which extends from the menu to the wine glasses (for those playing at home, no. 45 = il vino buono, “the good wine”).
Beside Ettore in the kitchen is fellow Neapolitan Gianluca (Luca) Amalfitano, hand-making items to complement the pizza-driven menu, including a daily pasta and traditional sweets, such as pastiera Napoletana.
The open kitchen overlooks the dining room.
“It’s like a little church,” Ettore says. “We have the Mother Mary above, and we are up above – everyone can look up at what’s happening in the kitchen.”
Ettore’s priest, Padre Michael, even approves. “I invited him; he liked it.”
Madre, 57 Gilbert St, city, facebook.com/madre.adelaide
