SA restaurant review: Oliveti at Glenelg South

It’s the suburb that’s always lacked a high-end fine dining restaurant – until now. SA Weekend’s food reviewer has found a gem.

Anchovy, sago fritti, salsa, chilli at Oliveti restaurant, Glenelg South

Twenty minutes before sitting down to write this piece, I am walking the dog on the beach at the end of our street. It’s a stunning midwinter afternoon with blue skies, a whisper of breeze and the rhythmical surf surge. In a word: perfect.

It’s another reminder that living in this stretch of coastline from Glenelg to Seacliff is very special.

Without wanting to sound like a property agent, all the necessary facilities are close at hand and there is a strong community feeling. Everything you might want in a neighbourhood … other than somewhere to eat.

Yes, there are exceptions, particularly stalwarts such as the Glenelg BBQ Inn, and a handful of good cafes.

What the area really lacks, though, is a high-quality contemporary restaurant. The kind of place that has a cracking wine list, relaxed service and smart cooking – all with the pricing and flexibility that means it isn’t just for special occasions.

All of which helps to explain the excitement generated by the opening of Oliveti. Along with its sando-slinging sidekick, Spread, this Italian trattoria and bar has already made a splash in a quiet strip of shops along the Broadway. Summer should be something else again.

Rigatoni with duck ragu and hazelnuts at Oliveti restaurant, Glenelg South

Steak with smoked tomato and bone marrow at Oliveti restaurant, Glenelg South

Given that it has taken over the burnt-out shell of an IGA, Oliveti was always going to be a positive. Even so, few would have envisioned this space could be transformed into an uber-cool venue for the two linked businesses, with rounded corners in the joinery, textured tiles and a palette of white with splashes of rust, peach and terracotta. Seating options are spread between a raised gallery down one side, a banquette beneath, high and low tables, a central bar counter and a private room for larger gatherings. Extra numbers spill over into Spread or out to the footpath when required.

It’s an ambitious – and no doubt expensive – project, particularly for the burbs. It shows the underlying confidence of owners Embr Hospitality, and particularly director Sam Worrall-Thompson, who first came to prominence with the homespun charms of Lune Bar and Eatery, followed by the slicker Dolly on Unley Rd.

Oliveti is a bit more restaurant-y than this pair and speaks with a strong Italian accent – among many of the high-calibre staff; in a wine list that is half imported, half local; and in a menu put together by group executive chef Scott Schwarz that builds on a foundation of pasta and steaks.

Interior at Oliveti restaurant, Glenelg South

Interior at Oliveti restaurant, Glenelg South

Prior to that comes a repertoire of smaller snacky stuff, or piccolo, most of which doesn’t need cutlery. A sago-based fritter, looking like a muesli bar, is adorned with dots of fermented chilli along one edge, a squiggle of salsa at the other and an anchovy draped through the middle. The tricky part is getting a little of everything in each mouthful.

The best of these fried finger foods, however, is an arancini-ish croquette of mashed pumpkin and carnaroli that is elevated by the addition of smoked scamorza cheese.

Forks are required for the first time to eat a pretty plate of top-shelf raw kingfish slices with diced green tomato and pear. A lovely verjuice dressing brings the elements together.

Spaghetti vongole is given a small revision, with the pipi shells lined up on either side of a bundle of the pasta strands in a light sauce with chilli and garlic, but no real evidence of those precious seafood juices. And rigatoni with “duck ragu, hazelnut and marjoram” offers a pleasant tomato-and-veg-based sugo but not enough of the braised meat to live up to the description.

That leaves the Coorong mullet a winner among the mains, with a trio of crisp-skinned fried fillets beneath a pile of fried capers and finished with a punchy arabiata butter. A timid fish might not be up for the challenge but the confident mullet flavour handles it beautifully.

A vego plate of grilled cabbage has sold out and is swapped for a pair of sides, with the rind-on slices of orange that come with grilled honey carrots a moment of inspiration.

Oliveti has already attracted a strong following and is filling up over the weekend. Come the warmer weather, and day-trippers from far-flung areas, the locals will no longer have it to themselves.

Why not book now and beat the rush?