Restaurant review: Inside The Archer, offering more than just pub grub

SA Weekend food reviewer shares the unlikely Adelaide spot where she’s discovered a mighty southern fried chicken that rivals Nola and Motherlode.

SA Weekend restaurant review The Archer dishes Picture: Supplied

Owners of advertising agency Retail Ink, brothers Joe and Ross Calabria reopened The Archer in time for Gather Round. Clearly, the footy crowd and concertgoers, at Adelaide Oval or The Drive, are among the hotel’s target clientele.

The rustic dining room has charming vintage images of archers. There are wooden booths and tables with not much space between.

With timber floorboards, noise would surely be amplified on nights when the place is packed.

On this Tuesday evening, after a group of eight finish their meals, we end up being the only diners in an echo-y room – with a soft rock soundtrack for company.

There are three of us, so we decide to share a few dishes.

At a quick glance the menu seems to offer typical pub grub such as chicken schnitties, smash burgers and fish and chips; chicken tenders and ham and pineapple pizza for kids; lunch specials for seniors on weekdays.

Sprouts with a zingy yoghurt dressing. Picture: Anna Vlach

The Archer’s dishes bucks the pub grub trend. Picture: Anna Vlach

It would not be drawing a long bow to say The Archer is somewhat lacking in options for vegetarians. There are small and share plates, such as corn and cauliflower, plus a margherita and vego pizza, but nothing among the mains.

That said, this pub brings more to the table than staples.

We decide on fried chicken for our entree, knowing Nola in the East End and Hindley St’s Motherlode – which is famous for its tenders – are tough acts to follow.

The Archer’s buttermilk chipotle chicken hits the bullseye.

With a sweet, salty, sticky, crispy coating and soaked in buttermilk, the chicken, which has just the right amount of ranch sauce, is juicy and more-ish. And there was a lot of it, so no one was left wanting. The generous serving, as a starter, would easily satisfy a group of four.

However, there is a drawback; we wait close to 45 minutes for it, which would have been way too long were we on our way to a sporting match, concert or movie at nearby Piccadilly Cinema. Thankfully, the arrival of the mains – and a share plate of brussels sprouts – is more timely.

An enormous bowl of sprouts comes out first and vegos could make a meal of it – if they order it without the bacon.

Dressed with the tasty combo of tangy lemon labneh (yoghurt) and manchego cheese, the sprouts are crispy, caramelised and, again, more-ish.

The expansive hotel is a favourite with sportsfans. Picture: Supplied

They are also an ideal accompaniment to our mains – beef brisket and lamb shoulder.

By now we need more cutlery to serve them, but it is not forthcoming, so we help ourselves to some from nearby tables.

Slow cooked for 16 hours, the lamb melts in the mouth, and is complemented by a sweet, fruity chutney-like sumac labneh, creamy kipfler potatoes and a side salad.

This evening, the beef, which is normally served with mash, also comes with the potatoes and side salad.

It is firm – a serrated knife would have been appreciated – but tender. Spicy, with a smoky salsa, it takes the cake.

Desserts – lemon tart, strawberry sponge cheesecake and cinnamon waffles – all sound tempting.

We can’t possibly fit them because the servings were so generous we could barely finish our delicious mains.

We chat to the waiter, who apologises for the delays in service.

(I later find out, when I contact The Archer seeking some photos for this review, two new chefs were in training.)

The waiter also tells us their favourite dish – the Buttermilk Chipotle Chicken – is soon to be off the menu permanently.

Our group all agree The Archer should aim to keep it.

60 O’Connell St,

North Adelaide

thearcherhotel.com.au

Main courses

$28-$57

Open

Lunch and dinner
Tues-Sun

Must try

Buttermilk Chipotle Chicken, Beef Brisket

Verdict

Food 16/20

Ambience 10/20

Service 11/20

Value 15/20

Overall 13/20

As a guide, scores indicate:

1-9 Fail; 10-11 Satisfactory;
12-14 Recommended; 15-16 Very Good; 17-18 Outstanding;
19-20 World Class

delicious.com.au/eatout