Why Restaurant Botanic has been named 2022’s best restaurant in South Australia

A chef’s dazzling imagination and connection to place pushed this SA restaurant ahead of the pack to be crowned our best for 2022. Find out what’s behind its meteoric rise.

When Justin James saw the prehistoric bunya pines that tower over the surrounding plants of the Adelaide Botanic Garden, he was initially interested in their gigantic cones. Then he saw the lethal-looking spiky branches lying fallen at the base of the tree and wondered whether he could do anything with them.

After days of trial and error, he worked out that they could be roasted and then infused in gently heated cream, the starting point to a toffee-crowned dessert that has become a signature of his trailblazing time in charge of the renamed, revamped Restaurant Botanic.

The dish is typical of the connection to place and dazzling imagination that has seen the eatery become a clear choice as number one in this year’s delicious.100 list of South Australia’s best restaurants.

Restaurant Botanic executive chef Justin James, among the bunya pines which are used in some of his dishes. Picture: Tom Huntley

The announcement caps a meteoric rise for the restaurant, located in old tearooms at the heart of the garden, that reopened after a major transformation little more than a year ago.

James has been integral to these changes, pitching a complete concept to owners, the Blanco Horner Group, which they thankfully agreed to run with.

While his name might not be familiar to local diners, James’s background makes his achievements here slightly less surprising.

He was raised on a small farm in Michigan, an upbringing he credits with instilling “a sense of place and time… and a natural feel” in his cooking. He initially studied civil engineering before deciding to switch to the vocation he loved and enrolling in a culinary school.

After completing training shifts in some of New York’s most decorated establishments, he worked for four years at Eleven Madison Park, named the world’s best restaurant in 2017.

Wanting to travel, he moved to Melbourne and quickly became executive chef at highly rated Vue de monde, where he spent five years broken only by a stint at Noma in Copenhagen, another former world number one.

Justin James with paperbark used to smoke Murray cod. Picture: Tom Huntley

When Covid hit, he planned to return to the US but, was enticed to come to Adelaide after seeing the garden and the potential of the restaurant.

He started by overseeing the redesign of the room, complementing its quaint detailing with contemporary features and, more importantly, creating an open kitchen that juts into the dining space like a ship’s bow.

At the same time, he began exploring the garden’s bounty, harvesting flowers, leaves, seeds and roots, experimenting with them in ferments and pickles, wrapping his head around a new kaleidoscope of flavours and seeing where they would fit with the elite produce he was sourcing from across the state and beyond.

The result is “The Garden Trail”, a selection of more than 20 “flavour combinations” that morphs constantly depending on what is best and what is in season.

That might include a dazzling three-part interaction of marron, corn and lemon myrtle; aged Murray cod fillet steamed in a paperbark parcel with celeriac and garum butter; a kebab of grilled kangaroo and locally foraged morel mushroom; and the semi-frozen bunya cream with native thyme.

Justin James inside Restaurant Botanic, SA’s number one restaurant for 2022. Picture: Tom Huntley

James says developing dishes such as these can take up to three months and brings a lot of pressure. “To keep innovating, stay creative… these are pressures I put on myself, no one else,” he says. “Someone that paints a picture can take three years. And to me, these (dishes) are little masterpieces… and at Botanic we’re doing over 20 of them. And then the season changes…”

Eating at Botanic requires a significant commitment of time and money. The cost for food alone is $275 a head ($245 for Thursdays) and must be paid in full when booking, like a theatre ticket. Wine packages begin at $175.

James agrees it is not for everyone. “If you aren’t prepared to sit here for four hours don’t come. If you aren’t interested in trying new flavours and ideas and ingredients, it’s not the restaurant for you,” he says.

“People in hospitality are afraid to say no. You should try to accommodate the needs of your guests but, if you are for everybody, you are for nobody… you are Kmart.”

How this year’s delicious.100 was chosen

More than a third of the 2022 delicious.100 list of SA’s best restaurants are new or have reopened after significant changes since the previous list was published three years ago.

New businesses also make up half of the restaurants in the Top 10, revealed today in the second part of the guide published in SAWeekend and online at advertiser.com.au/delicious100.

It’s a remarkable sign of optimism and resilience for an industry that has faced incredible challenges from lockdowns, seating restrictions and ongoing staff shortages over this period.

The coveted number one spot on the list goes to Adelaide’s Restaurant Botanic, a venue that has been revamped and reimagined since the arrival of chef Justin James. The next two placegetters, arkhé and Fugazzi, are both less than 18 months old.

Oyster, horseradish, desert lime at Restaurant Botanic, Adelaide. Picture: Jon Wah

The delicious.100 is compiled by The Advertiser team of expert reviewers who have dined at more than 120 eateries across the state to make their assessment. All visits are unannounced and paid in full.

Restaurants are judged on their food, service, value and ambience. Consideration is also given to the “X-factor” – the intangible element that turns eating out into a truly memorable experience.

Analysing the list as a whole gives a snapshot into how and where South Australians are eating out. It encompasses dining styles and a range of budgets to suit every occasion. Flash fine diners are placed alongside fun bars and casual eateries that still show the necessary level of care in everything they are doing.

Italian is the most popular style of cuisine, with 11 entries. This is matched by Asian, Thai and Vietnamese categories when added together.

Rock lobster at arkhé. Picture: Duy Dash

In the battle of the regions, the Fleurieu, including McLaren Vale’s cellar doors, has leapt well ahead, with 17 places, including newcomers such as Muni, Down the Rabbit Hole and Lost Phoenix Farm.

The Adelaide Hills is second, closely followed by the Barossa Valley where perennial inclusion Appellation could not be considered because it has been closed for major renovations. The Clare Valley also continues its much-improved performance.

Meanwhile, the CBD continues to be the centre of dining attention, despite the continuing impact of Covid and workers not returning to offices in the city. And based purely on numbers, the balance of power has tilted slightly to the West End restaurants in the area around Leigh and Peel streets, as opposed to the East End.

The online version of the delicious.100, exclusive to digital subscribers, includes filters to allow users to search for restaurants by cuisine, location and budget. Eating out has never been easier – or more delicious.