US chef Justin James looking to make South Aussie produce sing in his new role as executive chef at the Botanic Gardens restaurant

Justin James got his first taste of cooking when his mum forced him to start making his own school lunches. It ignited a passion for food that’s taken him around the world to Adelaide.

New Botanic Gardens Restaurant executive chef Justin James. Picture: Tricia Watkinson

When US-born chef Justin James looks out over the leafy plane tree-packed views from his new Botanic Gardens Restaurant workplace, he feels inspired.

His new role as executive chef at the CBD restaurant marks an exciting new chapter for the space and its diners.

Since arriving in Adelaide in January, chef James has familiarised himself with the gardens and South Australia’s produce.

“I’ve travelled the world a lot and worked at some really amazing restaurants,” he says. “This is one of the best locations I’ve ever seen.”

The bright culinary spark has quite the CV. Before moving to Adelaide, he worked at some of the most respected restaurants across the globe, including Michael’s on the Hill in Vermont (US), New York’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns, New York’s Eleven Madison Park, acclaimed Copenhagen restaurant NOMA, and more recently five-and-a-half years at Melbourne’s Vue de Monde, where he served as executive chef.

Not bad for a Michigan kid who started cooking when his mother forced him to make his own school lunches.

“This is one of the best locations I’ve ever seen”. Picture: Tricia Watkinson

Soon after, he was cooking thanksgiving dinners for his family. When his father bought him a copy of chef Paul Prudhomme’s A Fork in the Road recipe book, his future was sealed.

The 34-year-old’s progression through the kitchen ranks has been swift. He gathered a multitude of accolades along the way, including the coveted 3 hat rating for culinary excellence for Vue de Monde in 2015 and 2017.

Now, his sights are set on making South Australian produce sing.

“My food is not just about embracing the best produce, it’s about using the most exceptional produce possible,” he says. “Everybody says they use the ‘best’ but there are different definitions of that. It might be the most expensive wagyu but does that make it the best?”

His standards are high. “When farmers pick produce at different times of the day, the temperature changes the flavour and texture of that produce on the plate,” he says. “All of that has to be taken into consideration. I won’t use a sub-par tomato; if they’re not picked at the right time, I’ll work something else out for the menu.”

The garden, from which the kitchen team picks and forages each day, will continue to be an inspiration but chef James wants to take things further.

James says he wants to make SA produce sing. Picture: Tricia Watkinson

“Botanic gardens are living museums of plants and trees,” he says. “Some species are more than 100 years old and the Botanic Garden here in Adelaide is the second largest seed bank in the southern hemisphere. It’s amazing to walk through them every day and I want to tie that into the food. There is a flavour profile going on out there.”

He will work with Botanic Garden directors to make the most of what is planted (and could be planted).

“I don’t want to just take a leaf from the garden and put it on a plate,” he says. “That’s a cop out. I want to give it to you in a different way. Whether it’s made into a paste, or fermented, dried, cured, or made into a powder or oil.”

In the kitchen, fermentation, curing, drying, raw preparation and cooking over fire and steam will be a focus. As will creativity.

“I don’t want to be known as a native ingredient Australian restaurant. I just want to be known for producing an exceptional experience with exceptional produce.”

Renovations (after Mother’s Day) are on the horizon, too.

Chef James wants diners to have a completely immersive experience, from the food on their plate, to the beverage in their glass, and what they hear, see and smell. “I’ll be in charge of the whole restaurant, from what’s happening out the back and behind the scenes.”

The restaurant is open from Thursday to Sunday.

“I want people to come here and for three or four hours feel like they’re on a mini vacation,” chef James says. “I’m really excited. Hopefully I can make noise here. Not only for the restaurant but for Adelaide as well.”