‘Out of this world’: Take a look at 2023’s top rated restaurant reviews judged by The Advertiser’s food reviewer
After dining around South Australia, The Advertiser’s food reviewer had crowned his highest rated, must visit eateries. See Simon Wilkinson’s top picks.
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Restaurants in South Australia have once again been put to the test in 2023 by The Advertiser’s supreme food reviewer, Simon Wilkinson.
From ramen, steak, pasta and more, Simon has eaten his way through our state on a mission to find the very best to share with you, the readers.
It’s time to take a epicurean journey through his top picks of the year and help you select your must try eateries for 2024.
TASTE TEST: SIMON’S TOP 23 DISHES OF 2023
The 19 restaurants below scored a between 15 to 16 out of 20, which falls into the ‘Very Good’ rank in Simon’s rating scale, and are worthy of being added to your culinary hit list.
Hentley Farm
Location: Gerald Roberts Rd, Jenke Rd, Seppeltsfield
Rating: 16.5/20
Earning the top score out of all the restaurants reviewed in 2023 is Hentley Farm in Seppeltsfield.
The must try dishes are the blackberry and parfait tart for dessert and a main of kangaroo, chimichurri and radicchio. Delicious.
Overall the eatery scored an impressive 16.5 out of 20, which is between very good and outstanding on Simon’s scale.
“Lunch at Hentley Farm has barely started and it seems that dessert might have come early. But these gorgeous, genre-defying petit four are only the start of the twists and turns in a tea party for the ages in this most Barossan of wonderlands,” Simon wrote.
The Lane Vineyard
Location: Ravenswood Lane, Hahndorf
Rating: 16/20
The view from The Lane Vinyard’s dining room is described as “like a movie panorama”, with its picturesque views of Handhorf and the Hills.
“From stands of statuesque gums to vineyards and paddocks to misty mountain ranges. Universal Pictures presents The Adelaide Hills. All that’s missing is the orchestral soundtrack,” Simon wrote.
Scoring a neat 16 out of 20, the must-try dishes being the ocean trout, kohlrabi and the soubise, with the sourdough bread getting a special shout out.
“If there is a sourdough going around superior to the slices served here, I’m yet to meet it,” Simon wrote.
Fino Seppeltsfield
Location: 730 Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield
Rating: 16/20
The must tries on the menu at Fino Seppeltsfield are king prawns, XO butter, basque cheesecake and stone fruit.
“An XO sauce made from the dehydrated offcuts of last winter’s bluefin tuna is another step up in power and complexity,” Simon wrote.
“Mounted with butter, it provides an awesome orchestral backing track to butterflied king prawns that have been brushed with some of the unctuous juices from the heads as they grill in their shells.”
Praise goes to the front of house Mel Hamilton and head chef Daniel Murphy for their menu and hospitality.
The Enchanted Fig Tree
Location: 6015 North Coast Rd, Snelling Beach, Kangaroo Island
Rating: 16/20
Dining under the natural wonder of a fig tree on the wildlife haven of Kangaroo Island was a standout experience for our reviewer this year.
And it wasn’t just the backdrop that ensured this KI restaurant made the top list of 2023, it was the fresh produce, like saltbush rubbed lamb and figs.
“Put the Enchanted Fig Tree to the top of the list of reasons to plan a trip to this amazing island where, earlier in the day, just up the coast at Stokes Bay, we had been swimming beside a pair of frolicking dolphins,” he wrote.
“Like dinner, it is a complete surprise and an experience we will long remember: nature in all its splendour.”
Peel St Restaurant
Location: 9 Peel St, Adelaide
Rating: 16/20
As one of the CBD’s most popular restaurants, Simon paid a visit after to see if it still held its original charm and culinary prowess after changing hands.
“Peel St (the restaurant as opposed to the laneway in which it is located) holds a special place in the heart of many Adelaide diners, myself included,” he wrote.
The verdict for Peel St Restaurant was strong with 16 out of 20, with Simon recommending the pistachio ice cream, ginger crumb and barberry syrup as a must try.
“It’s classic Peel St – bold, punchy, bursting with good intentions,” Simon wrote.
Elementary by Soul Co
Location: 12 Margaret St, Mount Gambier
Rating: 16/20
The fact that new eatery Soul Co was headed up by talented regional chef Kirby Shearing was justification enough for our food reviewer to travel to regional South Australia.
But it was his experience when at the Mount Gambier restaurant that would have him going back again and again.
A set five-course menu rolled one surprise after the next. Simon dined on cabbage rolls, house-baked focaccia, cauliflower cheese, pumpkin agnolotti, Angus sirloin and a chocolate and citrus dessert.
Each course was hailed as a seasonal showpiece, with Simon declaring the rich chocolate dessert the star of the show.
“The balance is something confectioners would die for,” he added.
Patch Kitchen and Garden
Location: 143 Mount Barker Rd, Stirling
Rating: 15.5/20
Described as a “smart, welcoming haven” by Simon, Patch Kitchen and Garden received a solid score of 15.5 out of 20.
The chef behind this simple Stirling restaurant, Andrew Davies, is the brainchild behind CBD food havens, Osteria Oggi and the original Press Food and Wine.
So, our reviewer knew he was in for a culinary treat, which landed in the form of a beef pot pie.
“The beef pot pie is … a keeper. While the puff pastry lid is properly crisp and flaky, it is what lies beneath that makes this special,” wrote Simon.
Also praised were the dessert, a raspberry souffle and an almond and hazelnut dacquoise.
“Perfection, really. Good enough to go on TV. And good enough to keep the locals happy,” said Simon.
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Angove
Location: 117 Chalk Hill Rd, McLaren Vale
Rating: 15.5/20
With a snapper dish that Simon describes as “out of this world”, Angove in McLaren Vale is the perfect addition to any list of wineries with top dining experiences.
“Chunks of the fish are ever-so-briefly torched to singe the skin but leave the pale pink flesh beneath pure, delicate and vulnerable,” he wrote.
“Translucent slices of celery and an understated “ponzu” sauce based on fennel juice gently draw out the flavour, while a fermented green chilli relish adds a lovely exclamation mark at the finish. The combination is beyond exquisite.”
Recommended dishes are the Raw Cape Jaffa snapper, fennel ponzu, caramelised figs, sheep’s milk yoghurt ice-cream.
Ramen & Izakaya Himeji
Location: 22 Grote St, Adelaide
Rating: 15.5/20
There’s sushi and then there’s Ramen & Izakaya Himeji sushi, which garnered a score of 15.5 our of 20 and is the only sushi joint on our list.
‘Kudos to owner/chef Shozo Ikeda, for whom the restaurant is a culmination of more than 30 years spent introducing the nuances of Japanese cooking to Adelaide,” Simon wrote.
Along with the sushi, the pork gyoza and karaage chicken also got the tick of approval from Simon.
“Ikeda-san doesn’t cut corners, investing in equipment such as a special machine to make noodles of different thicknesses, depending on the style of ramen,” he added.
La Louisiane
Location: 89 King William St, Adelaide
Rating: 15.5/20
La Louisiane, a new French restaurant that opened beneath the city this year had The Advertiser’s food reviewer falling “head over heels”.
From French classics such as steak frites, beef tartare and crème brulee, the subterranean eatery ticked all the boxes.
“Adelaide’s La Louisiane is overflowing with joie de vivre,” Simon wrote.
“A jazz band’s double bass rhythm echoes from bare brick walls and floors made for toe-tapping. Lights glow softly and the crowd is as effervescent as a flute of Veuve. Empty wine bottles are scattered about as though the party is never-ending. Which isn’t far from the truth.”
A restaurant combining atmosphere, traditional French eats and a vast wine list with a distinct nod to Europe.
Chianti
Location: 160 Hutt St, Adelaide
Ranking: 15.5/20
With a history spanning 35 years, Chianti is undoubtedly an unwavering favourite to foodies in the city.
But after moving locations and changing menus, our food reviewer went for a fresh visit to see if the food was still as tantalising – even with a new look.
Though the scenery may have changed, the quality of the food hadn’t, earning a score of 15.5 out of 20.
“In the kitchen, British head chef Josh Cooke trained with Rick Stein in Cornwall and also worked for five years at Orana,” Simon wrote.
“He has embraced, it seems, the Chianti style of ego-free Italian cooking that celebrates good produce without unnecessary complication.”
Kiin
Location: 73 Angas St, Adelaide
Ranking: 15.5/20
New restaurant Kiin got high reviews for its burrata which came with green nahm jim and Thai salsa. An Asian twist on a European dish that catapulted to popularity in the last few years.
It was as celebrated as a roti arriving with Ortiz tuna and tomato stir fry, still served in the tuna tin it came in.
“Kiin already feels like a permanent fixture, the atmosphere intoxicating,” Simon wrote.
“A few wrinkles in the service, no doubt, will quickly be sorted. Get ready for a party, Adelaide. Starting with the dip.”
The Brompton Hotel
Location: 5 First St, Brompton
Ranking: 15.5/20
Although this pub didn’t have a parmi on the menu, it didn’t disappoint.
The Brompton Hotel impressed Simon with its other crumbed chicken variety, including a chicken Kyiv.
“The Brompton Hotel, however, takes crumbed chicken into a different dimension,” Simon wrote.
“Not just because chef Andrew Wandless has shaped the normally flat breast fillet into a perfect orb. He has also given it a surprise soft-centre of Kyiv-style butter, and upgraded the chips to a bed of lyonnaise potatoes.”
A Prayer for the Wild at Heart
Location: 44 Hurtle Square, Adelaide
Ranking: 15/20
From a luxe brioche slider to ricotta gnuddi, rainbow chard and brown butter, there’s more to this restaurant than its unusual name.
“For the uninitiated, the name of this mysterious venue to the east of the Adelaide CBD might suggest an eclectic cafe that’s good for an espresso and the chance to hang out with a few artsy folk. All true,” Simon explained.
“What it doesn’t prepare you for is duck liver parfait, salad niçoise and a bouillabaisse that stacks up with some of the best fish soups this side of the Mediterranean.”
Pastel
Location: 47 O’Connell St, North Adelaide
Ranking: 15/20
If you’re not getting that The Advertiser’s food reviewer is a dessert man then this is perhaps the biggest indicator with Pastel getting high marks for its phenomenal roasted hazelnut semifreddo.
But it wasn’t all sweet delights, with a sumptuous grilled octopus and crispy eggplant also getting a shout out.
“I’m similarly smitten with Pastel and the way it manages to get most of the important stuff right while simultaneously appearing to have a whale of a time,” Simon wrote.
“It is young, fun and bristles with positive energy. Let’s hope it’s contagious.”
The Odd Plate
Location: 51 Chapman Tce, Kingscote
Ranking: 15/20
Formerly known as the Seaview Hotel, The Old Plate opened its door on Kangaroo Island this year, offering hearty homemade-style eats.
For The Advertiser’s food reviewer, it was the house-made focaccia, house-made pistachio pesto, house-made stracciatella cheese and house-made pickled onion that were a stand out.
Simon shared, “The young team behind the Seaview’s revival seem to have similar levels of resolve. New owner Yen Leow has overseen the transformation of two daggy wings of units, added in the 1960s, into rooms full of Palm Springs retro glamour.”
Recommended on the menu was also the charred broccoli, almond cream and currants. Delicious.
Essen, Artisans of Barossa
Location: 24 Vine Vale Rd, Tanunda
Ranking: 15/20
There’s a vast array of cellar doors spotted through the Barossa but it was the arrival of a new chef that had Simon heading to Essen, Artisans of Barossa.
“Robin Wagner grew up and trained in Germany but, since shifting to Australia in 2017, has worked in the revered kitchens of Sydney’s Sepia, the Lake House in country Victoria and, most recently, Magill Estate restaurant,” Simon wrote about the acclaimed chef.
“The promise of this stellar CV is heightened further by a few random browses of an online menu that, while short, has the telltale signs of high-level dining.”
A “wine-lovers wonderland”, with the standout dishes being the raw nannygai, whipped ricotta with roasted hazelnut and wilted baby spinach, Murray cod, and Gumshire pork loin.
Jolleys Boathouse
Location: 1 Jolleys Lane, Adelaide
Ranking: 15/20
One of the most celebrated restaurants in Adelaide had a fresh start this year with a brand new chef.
And Jolleys Boathouse, fittingly found on Jolleys Lane in the CBD, was well received by Simon, with his top menu pick landing on the Maremma Farm duck for main and the lemon tart for dessert.
“In their place is a menu that wouldn’t look too out of place in a flashy Parisian bistro. There is foie gras parfait and cheese souffle. Tartare and bisque,” he shared.
“A pomme puree to help finish off meaty reduction sauces. Add shavings of local truffle for a fee if you wish.”
Gao
Location: 143 Regency Rd, Croydon Park
Ranking: 15/20
A true testament to don’t judge a book by its cover. This Asian-influenced restaurant in Croydon Park might not be the fanciest when it comes to interiors and even exteriors, but Gao’s menu was hailed by Simon as a success.
Here you will find authentic Vietnamese fare, with the must try being named as the Banh knot, a coconut pancake with prawns.
“ … I can’t recommend highly enough,” he wrote. “Gao is one of this year’s great discoveries. Take family, take friends. Just be prepared for some splatter.”
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