Adelaide Fringe Taste Test 2020: Gluttony and RCC
In round two of this year’s Fringe Taste Test, we put RCC and Gluttony through their paces. And our reviewers have really bared their teeth on some less impressive offerings.
Fringe
Don't miss out on the headlines from Fringe. Followed categories will be added to My News.
- Fringe Taste Test I: Garden of Unearthly Delights
- Find the perfect show with the ’Tiser Fringe Adviser
Our team of taste testers have grazed their way through the Garden of Unearthly Delight’s so now it’s time to put Gluttony and RCC to the knife (and fork). And while there’s been some big hits there’s also been some flops.
Gluttony
PIZZATECA
Rating: Five stars
Rita pizza $15
McLaren Vale’s Pizzateca brings southern Italian style wood oven pizza to Gluttony’s West Market and it’s bellissimo.
Wait 10 minutes then it’s straight out of the fire and on to the plate.
The pizza wheel cutter makes easy work of the fresh dough base with a crust so nice we eat a few slices backwards.
We order the Rita – fresh sugo (sauce), parmigiana, mozzarella, basil and olive oil, and it’s a ripper, Rita.
Something else: Salami pizza: sugo, mozzarella, salami, chilli $17
FINE & FETTLE
Rating: Four and a half stars
Shredded duck $17
The Stepney café makes its Fringe debut with “bowl food” – you’ll find tuna poke and vegan broadbean falafels, but lovers of South East Asian cuisine will adore this salad. At $17 it’s among the more expensive food options but the quality is there: shredded duck is tossed through slivers of green mango, Thai basil, fresh chilli (this packs some heat), crushed peanuts and black sesame. It’s all piled high on a little rice for good measure. Fresh and delicious.
Something else: If you feel like a nibble, they’ve got mac & cheese balls, and wasabi fries.
THAVEJ THAI
Rating: Four stars
Vegetarian Pad Thai $15
Chicken or the egg? Which came first when cooking up this pad thai? Neither. And don’t look for prawns either because this is a vegie version.
Boring? Well, it’s not. A healthier alternative to the pad thai Aussies are used to, this feels light and fresh, but still fills you up.
Something else: It’s also DIY peanuts, fried shallots and mild chilli.
FLAT IRON GRILL
Rating: Three stars
Bacon Man Toastie $13
The classic cheese toastie is given a gourmet twist with flavours such as the “Bacon Man”. Packed with a copious amount of filling and wrapped in crisp toasted bread, it’s balanced but lacks an overall wow-factor. At a $13 price point for a toastie, one expects a little more for their hard-earned. Vegan toasties were also available and waiting time was less than 10 minutes.
UNCLE BUCK’S OLD SKOOL FISH N CHIPS
Rating: Four stars
Fish and Chips with Salad $14.90
New to the fold this year and run by city cafe Luigi’s Delicatessen. Within two minutes of ordering we’re holding our box of crumbed crunchy whiting fillet, served with chips and a nice semolina-based dish called Upma. It’s a good size and served warm, making the meal easy to handle. The Upma has a lemony niceness to it and is a perfect finale to the fish and chips.
Something else: Kids’ fish nuggets, $8.90
ENFES GOZLEME
Rating: Three-and-a-half stars
Spinach and feta gozleme $13.90
Two capable mammas are mixing, rolling and folding at the back of the spotlessly clean kitchen, and the lads are out the front barbecuing as fast as you can order – and being endlessly cheerful as they recommend some of the “awesome” baklava.
The spinach and feta gozleme is like a pancake with ambitions, the spicy cheesy filling is so more-ish.
There’s meat versions available, too.
Scoff the gozleme with a squeeze of lemon and a splodge of chilli.
It comes in slices so it’s great shared as a snack.
Something else: The lads are right – the baklava ($3.40) looks awesome
JOY BIRD
Rating: Three-and-a-half stars
¼ Chicken with secret seasoning and side slaw $19
Fans of Hyde Park restaurant JoyBird, rejoice! Festivals can offer plenty of fried foods, so a chargrilled ¼ chicken with “secret seasoning” and a side of coleslaw is a healthier option. True to form, only the freshest ingredients were used in the slaw – peppery rocket, crunchy cabbage and salty nori to top – it stole the show. The chicken was delicious, if a little finicky when you’re trying to eat off your lap at a busy festival.
Something else: The burger would be easier to eat.
RAGINI SPICE NAANCHO MAN
Rating: Three stars
Naanurito $16
This Indian-based cuisine shamelessly mashes up concepts – and offers both vego and meaty versions. The naanurito had a naan base with rice, beans, tomatoey sauce and a large blob of fresh salad. It was a generous and filling meal, even if lacking in a bit of the subtle spice we adore Ragini’s cooking for. A bit of chilli on the side won’t hurt, and the fast and friendly service was a bonus.
Something else : Get a garlic naan, $5, to chomp on with friends.
HUBBA HUBBA HUMMUS
Rating: Four stars
The Hubba Heaven, $14
Hummus certainly isn’t the most difficult dish on the planet but done right with interesting accompaniments, it hits the spot. The Hubba Heaven is a pretty plate chocka with hummus, falafel, spiced cauli, a boiled egg, Israeli salad and pickles (so flipping good). It’s gluten free and vegan to boot. Middle Eastern flavour
for days.
Something else: Warm pita is $2 and essential for dipping.
TOLY VIETNAMESE
Rating: Four stars
Eight pork dumplings $12
If you’re wanting a satisfying, late night Fringe feed, head to this Vietnamese joint. The dumplings (chicken, pork or shiitaki mushrooms for an extra $2) are a decent serving, small and easy to eat shape with a thin casing and tasty filling. It’s complemented by a slightly sweet sauce, and a sprinkling of spring onions.
Something else: Rice noodle salad,$18, with a choice of crackling pork belly, lemongrass chicken, organic tofu and vegan pork
JERRY’S SMOKEHOUSE
Rating: Four-and-a-half stars
Drunken nachos $16
When the very friendly staff hands over some pulled pork to taste, it is our undoing. It is incredibly delicious, tender and juicy. Choose a meal that makes the pork the hero, such as the nachos, which are a beautiful, tasty and satisfying mess of pulled pork – which has been smoked for 12 hours – crispy potato chips, salsa, aioli and fried jalapeño with lime juice. Outstanding service.
Something else: Carnivores’ plate, $30.
SOZA’S SRI LANKAN
Rating: Four stars
Chicken kottu $15
If this is the food you get from the streets of Sri Lanka, then fly me over. Roti bread takes on the role of noodles or rice, chopped up and tossed through bits of chicken, egg, shredded carrot and spring onion, all in mild dry curry spices. It’s tasty and a good belly liner – could only be bettered with a wedge of fresh lemon to squeeze over.
Something else: Hot butter squid, $16.
SHIBUI DESSERT BAR
Rating: Four stars
Panna Cotta $12
So nuts for Nutella that you’ve been known to eat it straight from the jar?
Go for it, but why not also treat yourself to this sophisticated sweet.
Think creamy panna cotta that’s rich without bring sickly, tempered by a super-sized swirl of vanilla soft serve scattered with a slightly savoury “Nutella crunch”.
The perfect date-night dessert.
Something else: Try the fudge-tastic Choc Lava Cake, $14
THE FILIPINO PROJECT
Rating: Two-and-a-half stars
Filipino BBQ Chicken $16
This popular stall had long queues – or was that just exacerbated by slow service? Tasters started out curious to see whether Spanish or South-East Asian flavours would triumph, but turns out, it wasn’t either. Filipino BBQ Chicken was a big meaty slab of chicken with rice and a good serve of fresh salad – nothing surprising, but nothing to scare the fussy eaters, either. Vegan varieties are available too. Tropical barbecue, anyone?
Something else: You could always go the curly fries, $8
FORAGE SUPPLY CO
Rating: Three stars
Jackfruit dumplings $15
It’s a heartwarming ethos: fresh, environmentally sustainable, plant-based meals with the world and community at heart.
The jackfruit dumplings are an enticing prospect and while the handmade barbecue jackfruit filling is flavour-packed, the firm little dumps could do with more of it.
The pickled salad is a nice touch.
Something extra: Sweet potato fries loaded with pulled jackfruit and slaw, $15.
GAS STATION
Rating: Three stars
12-hr beef cheese burger $12 American Hotdog $8
The idea of the burger struck a chord, with pulled beef, jalapeños and cheese in a toasted brioche bun.
But it didn’t quite hit the mark – the beef was a too chewy and there was something missing, more pickles perhaps?
The hotdog, on the other hand, was a winner.
There’s no arguing with a quality dog, fresh bun and all of the condiments.
Something else: Vegan nachos, $10
YIAYIA’S YIROS
Rating: Two stars
Chicken AB $18
A fundamental staple of any Greek takeaway, an AB pack is a fan-favourite after a big night or when you are in the mood for no-nonsense meat and chips. At a higher-end $18, the AB from Yiayia’s Yiros frankly did not live up to expectation. The meat and chips were lukewarm at most, and the tzatziki, which often makes the AB, was tucked away in the corner leaving an overall unsatisfying end product. But that said, wait time was an impressive five minutes.
Something else: More chips, why not?
RCC
Some high praise for the food but not much love for the venue here. Reviewers thought it was hard to find and two short reviewers enjoyed the challenge of reaching the counters – not sure how people in a wheelchair would cope.
BUK BUK CHICKEN
Rating: Three stars
Buk Yeah! $18
Buk Buk was described by a colleague as “life changing” chicken. I wouldn’t go that far, but if crispy chicken is your thing, this’ll do it for you. Buk Yeah! includes three wings, three big nuggets and waffle-cut chips, with a nice contrasting pile of pickles on top. The chicken is thick and crispy with just enough spice to make it interesting, and never oily. There’s a side of very superior slaw here, but who cares. Crunch.
Something else: More waffle fries. Just keep crunching.
HAPPY BURGER
Rating: Two stars
Chick’n Burger $14.5
That it took three people, including the chef, to print out a receipt for one burger was not a great omen. Nor was the presentation of this vegie burger, as bald and colourless as it was tasteless.
The chipotle mayo, slaw, pickled jalapeño and onion accompaniments looked good on the menu but added little to a bog standard offering at an RCC that has lost much of its vigour and cred since decamping from Victoria Square. Quite simply, fairground fodder at Adelaide Oval prices.
Something else: Fries, even at $6.50 may be the better deal
SUPERBANGER
Rating: Two stars
All Time Banger $14
Served on a sourdough baguette, the sizeable sausage comes with sweet mustard pickle, gruyere cheese, BBQ onion and Super Banger’s own spicy sauce.
Sadly the meal matched the service, sloppy and overdone, five people to cram far too much into one small offering, the sauce and wet and floppy onions squishing out its sides every time the banger was approached.
Something else: Have a go at the classic banger on the basis that less is more – onions, mustard and ketchup its sole extras.
ROBERTA’S ITALIAN DISCO DINER
Rating: Five stars
Vitello Tonnato $22
Table service, proper cutlery and plates, tablecloths, candlelight (albeit faux), attentive staff, and an Italian menu that belongs in a restaurant … it’s not your typical Adelaide Fringe fodder. Bravo to Adelaide chef Salvatore Pepe and his team. The Vitello Tonnato is rare beef sliced and served chilled. Fichi (figs wrapped with prosciutto and baked with gorgonzola, $22), polenta and truffle mushrooms ($26), and Melanzane (eggplant) parmigiana ($26) are unforgettable. You get what you pay for.
Something extra: Tiramisu ($12)
ê
ANTICA PIZZA
Rating: Two stars
Salami pizza $18
As friendly and punctual as the service was, the salami pizza (sugo and mozzarella were the only other listed ingredients) is little more than an edible charlatan. Indeed take away the salami and there really is little there beyond a crusty gloop. As bland as its surroundings.
Something else: For possible outrage value only, the nutella pizza at $19 is a potential standout.
FIRE X SOI.38
Rating: Five stars
Spicy loaded fries with beef and satay sauce $14
Soi. 38 restaurant owners Daisy Miller and Thai-born hubby and chef Terry Intarakhamhaeng take regional food from his homeland seriously. Their stall’s menu is no exception. Gloriously spicy! Chargrilled ¼ or ½ chicken with papaya salad and red curry fries comes topped with fresh herbs and chilli. Servings are generous and it’s all cooked over fire.
Something extra: The Thai beef sai au sausage with adjut cucumber salad, $15, is made using beef from Fleurieu Peninsula’s Nomad Farm.